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From Singapore to Munich
  • Home
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    • Beschäftigungen für Kinder auf Langzeitreisen / How to keep your kids busy on long-term trips
  • About us / Über uns
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Februar 29, 2020März 16, 2020

Bangkok – Ayutthaya: Mit Zug und Fahrrad / By Train and Bike

Deutsch / English

Bangkok – Ayutthaya: Mit Zug und Fahrrad durch die alte Königsstadt

Die Wäsche ist getrocknet, auch Titus‘ Kuschelhund Wuffi hat nun wieder saubere Pfoten und kann eingepackt werden. Bis wir abreisefertig sind, dauert es aber, denn Titus mag sich nicht von der Wohnung trennen. Zu schön findet er dieses „Zuhause“, zu toll kann man hier „The floor is lava“ spielen.

Zugfahrt Nummer eins

Gegen 10 Uhr erreichen wir den Hauptbahnhof. Die Dame am Schalter verkauft uns spottbillige Fahrkarten für das Dritte-Klasse-Abteil, die nur 20 Baht pro Erwachsener kosten. Im Vergleich dazu: die Zweite Klasse gibt es ab 300 Baht. Es bleibt gerade noch genug Zeit, am Kiosk ein paar Brötchen und einen Thai-Milk-Tea zu erstehen, dann fährt der Zug ein. Wir ergattern drei freie Sitzplätze im vollen Abteil, von dem ein ganzer Teil per Schild abgetrennt wird: „Reserve (!) for monks and novices“.

Auf die Minute pünktlich pfeift der Schaffner und der Zug fährt ab. Es geht im Schneckentempo nordwärts hinaus aus Bangkok, Haltestelle um Haltestelle kommt, bis wir ab dem Flughafen endlich Fahrt aufnehmen. Titus hört die gesamte Fahrt über fasziniert das neueste Ninjago-Hörbuch, Norman und ich lesen abwechselnd laut lachend die Memoiren des britischen Arztes Adam Kay. Nach gut eineinhalb Stunden auf unbequemen Sitzen erreichen wir den Bahnhof von Ayutthaya.

Für insgesamt 30 Baht geben wir unser Gepäck bis auf zwei kleine Rucksäcke in der Gepäckaufbewahrung ab und spazieren 500 Meter bis zum Fluß. Ein kleiner Stand sammelt dort das Fahrgeld für die Überfahrt ein, 5 Baht pro Person sind ein wirklich guter Preis. Wie am Schnürchen läuft der Transport: Das hölzerne Taxiboot fährt gerade ein, die Kapitänin winkt uns fröhlich zu und bringt uns wie Charon höchstpersönlich hinüber ans andere Ufer.

Wir spazieren durch eine düstere Markthalle, in der gerade aufgeräumt wird. Durchdringend liegt der Geruch von Fleisch und Fisch in der Luft, und wir versuchen, die Pfützen am Boden großräumig zu umgehen. Nach ein paar weiteren Minuten erreichen wir die touristische Hauptstraße, in der sich Hostels, Kneipen und Fahrradverleihe angesiedelt haben.

Radtour durch die alte Königsstadt

Inzwischen ist es bereits nach 13 Uhr, und wir legen eine kurze Mittagspause ein, bevor wir uns zwei Fahrräder mitsamt Kindersitz schnappen und auf eigene Faust auf Stadtbesichtigung gehen.

Ayutthaya war vom 14. bis 18. Jahrhundert die Hauptstadt Siams und eine der größten Städte weltweit. Generationen von Königen haben hier Palast um Palast, Tempel um Tempel erbaut – bis im Jahr 1767 die gesamte Stadt von einfallenden Birmanen dem Erdboden gleichgemacht und fast die gesamte Bevölkerung ausgelöscht wurde. Fünfzehn Jahre später gründete König Rama I. die neue Hauptstadt Bangkok 80 Kilometer weiter südlich.

Von der Pracht der ehemaligen Königsstadt zeugen über die ganze Stadt verteilt Ruinen, die seit 1991 zum UNESCO-Weltkulturerbe gehören. Die beste Möglichkeit, diese zu erkunden, ist das Fahrrad. Titus ist begeistert, er liebt Fahrradtouren und genießt die Rundfahrt.

Uns läuft dagegen bald der Schweiß in Strömen über das Gesicht, die Nachmittagshitze ist drückend und die Fahrräder entsprechen nicht ganz einem modernen Standard: Keine Gangschaltung, dafür klapprige Bremsen und wackliger Sattel inklusive.

Tempel, Chedis, Buddhafiguren

Wir lassen es also langsam angehen, legen an den bedeutendsten Palastruinen einen Stopp ein und besichtigen begeistert die von Würgefeigen überwachsenen Mauern, zerbrochenen Buddhafiguren und schiefen Türme.

Leider läuft Titus sich in seinen neuen Flipflops eine Blase, wir müssen also einen Abstecher im nächsten 7-Eleven einlegen, wo wir Pflaster und Unmengen Kaltgetränke erstehen. Norman navigiert uns bestens über zum Glück sehr ruhige Straßen und durch große Kreisverkehre. Vom Fahrrad aus bekommen wir einen guten Überblick über die schiere Größe des historischen Ayutthayas, an jeder Straßenecke steht ein mehr oder weniger verfallenes Überbleibsel eines Wats (= Tempel) oder ein Chedi. Besonders eindrucksvoll ist der Wat Phra Sri Sanphet mit seiner fast zehn Meter hohen sitzenden Buddha-Statue. Titus interessiert sich für die Blattgold-Verzierungen und wickelt sich gekonnt in einen Schal ein, denn er weiß, dass man Tempel nicht in kurzen Hosen betreten darf.

Inzwischen steht die Sonne tief und wirft ein umwerfendes Licht über die historischen Gebäude, die uns sehr an Ankor Wat und die gesamte Umgebung von Siem Reap erinnern.

In der untergehenden Sonne treten wir die Rückfahrt an und geben die Fahrräder ab. Im benachbarten Lokal gibt es höllisch scharfe Tom Yum zum Abendessen, dann spazieren wir zum Bahnhof zurück.

Zugfahrt Nummer zwei

Auf dem Feld nebenan scheint ein Volksfest im Gange zu sein, bunte Lichter, Plastiktische im Freien und Unmengen Einheimische sind dort anzutreffen. Der Lärm des Künstlers auf der Bühne ist ohrenbetäubend. Bei näherer Betrachtung stellen wir allerdings fest, dass es sich dabei um ein Hochzeitsfest handelt.

Wir holen unser Gepäck und machen es uns auf einer Bank am Gleis gemütlich, inmitten einer Heerschar von Rucksackreisenden. Leider ruft der gebrochen Englisch sprechende Bahnhofsvorsteher bald aus, dass unser Zug „broken“ (= kaputt) sei und deshalb mit einer nicht genauer definierten Verspätung zu rechnen sei. Dank e-Books, Snacks und Getränken überbrücken wir die Wartezeit aber gut, putzen neben vielen anderen am Bahnhofsklo die Zähne und steigen um 22:30 Uhr dann endlich mit eineinhalbstündiger Verspätung in den Zug Nr. 13 nach Chiang Mai.

Dieser Zug ist deutlich älter und einfacher als der letzte Nachtzug. Die Betten sind schmal, trotzdem besteht Titus darauf, dass ich mich zu ihm lege. Er findet alles wieder ganz großartig, lugt aus dem Fenster, setzt sich dann die Schlafmaske auf und ratzt innerhalb von Minuten ein. Ich brauche diesmal etwas länger, denn dieser Zug schaukelt dermaßen, dass ich mehrmals fast aus dem Bett falle. Trotzdem fühle ich mich hinter dem Vorhang gut versteckt und kuschle mich mit Titus und die dünne Decke. Kalt wird uns so schon mal nicht!


Deutsch / English

Bangkok – Ayutthaya: By Train and Bike around the Historic Royal City

The laundry has dried, Titus’ beloved softtoy dog Wuffi has white paws again and is ready for the next adventure. But it takes time until we are ready to leave, because Titus doesn’t want to part from the apartment. He finds this “home” too comfy and loves to play “The floor is lava” here.

Train Ride No. 1

Around 10 o’clock we reach the main station. The lady at the counter sells us cheap tickets for the third class compartment, which cost only 20 Baht per adult. In comparison: the second class is available from 300 Baht. There is just enough time to buy some buns and a Thai Milk Tea at the kiosk, then the train arrives.

We get three seats in the full compartment, a whole part of which is separated by a sign: “Reserve (!) for monks and novices”.

The conductor whistles and the train departs right on time. It goes northwards at a snail’s pace from Bangkok, stops and stops until we reach the airport station and finally start our journey a bit faster. Titus is fascinated by the latest Ninjago audio book, Norman and I alternately read the memoirs of the British doctor Adam Kay, laughing out loud. After a good one and a half hours in uncomfortable seats we reach the train station of Ayutthaya.

For a total of 30 Baht we leave our luggage except for two small backpacks in the luggage deposit and walk a small alley 500 meters to the river. At a small kiosk we pay the fare for the crossing, 5 Baht per person is a really good price. The transport runs like clockwork: The wooden taxi boat just reaches the pier, the captain waves us cheerfully and takes us over to the other bank like Charon himself.

We walk through a gloomy market hall, where they are just cleaning up. The smell of meat and fish pervades the air and we try to avoid the puddles on the ground. After a few more minutes we reach the main tourist road, where hostels, pubs and bicycle rentals have settled.

Cycling tour around the historic royal city

Meanwhile it is already after 1 p.m. and we have a short lunch break before we grab two bicycles including a child seat and start to explore the city.

Ayutthaya was the capital of Siam from the 14th to the 18th century and was known as one of the biggest cities worldwide. Generations of kings have built palace after palace, temple after temple – until in 1767 the entire city was razed to the ground by invading Burmese troops, and almost the entire population was wiped out. Fifteen years later, King Rama I founded the new capital Bangkok 80 kilometres further south.

Ruins scattered all over the city bear witness to the splendour of the former royal city, which has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1991. The best way to explore them is by bicycle. Titus is enthusiastic, he loves bicycle tours and enjoys the round trip.

But soon the sweat is pouring down on our faces, the afternoon heat is oppressive and the bikes don’t quite meet modern standards: no gears, but rickety brakes and shaky saddle included.

Temples, Chedis, Buddha Statues

So we take it slowly, make a stop only at the most important palace ruins and enthusiastically visit the remains, broken Buddha figures and leaning towers, overgrown with fig trees. Unfortunately, Titus runs a blister in his new flip-flops, so we have to make a side trip to the next 7-Eleven, where we buy plasters and lots of cold drinks. Norman navigates us very well over fortunately very quiet roads and through large roundabouts. From the bicycle we get a good overview of the sheer size of the historical Ayutthaya, on every street corner there is a more or less decayed remnant of a Wat (= temple) or a Chedi/Stupa.

Especially impressive is Wat Phra Sri Sanphet with its almost ten meters sitting Buddha statue. Titus is interested in the gold leaf decorations and wraps himself skilfully in a scarf, because he learned that one may not enter temples in short trousers.

Meanwhile, the sun is low and throws a stunning light over the historic buildings, which remind us very much of Ankor Wat and the whole area around Siem Reap.

In the setting sun we start the return trip and hand over the bikes. In the neighbouring restaurant we have a spicy Tom Yum for dinner, then we walk back to the station.

Train Ride No. 2

On the field next door a folk festival seems to be going on, with colourful lights, plastic tables outside and lots of locals. The noise of the artist on stage is deafening. On closer inspection, however, we realize that this is a wedding celebration and not meant for public.

We get our luggage and make ourselves comfortable on a bench at the track, in the midst of a host of backpackers. Unfortunately, the broken English speaking stationmaster soon exclaims that our train is “broken” and therefore we have to expect an undefined delay. But thanks to e-books, snacks and drinks we bridge the waiting time well, brush our teeth at the station toilet among many others and finally board the train No. 13 to Chiang Mai at 10:30 pm, with only one and a half hours of delay.

This train is much older and more basic than the last night train. The beds are narrow, nevertheless Titus insists that I lie in bed besides him. He still likes everything about this train ride again, and peeps out of the window for quite a while. Then puts on his sleeping mask and sleeps within minutes. I need a little longer this time, because this train swings so much that I almost fall out of bed several times. Nevertheless I feel well hidden behind the curtain and cuddle up with Titus and the thin blanket. We will not get cold like this!

Posted in East & Southeast Asia / Ost- & Südostasien, Thailand
Tagged Ayutthava, Bangkok, Bike, Outdoor, Temple, Thailand, Train, Zug
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Nadine
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   Bangkok, Tag 2: Erledigungen und lokale Köstlichkeiten / Bangkok, Day 2: Running Errands and Finding Delicacies
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About us / Über uns

Wir sind Norman, Titus (*2014) und Nadine, eine dreiköpfige Familie. Reiseerprobt und vom Fernweh befallen wagten wir uns an das Abenteuer, den Weg von Singapur nach München auf dem Landweg und nur per öffentlichen Verkehrsmitteln anzutreten. Leider machte uns Covid-19 einen Strich durch die Rechnung, aber wir ließen uns nicht aufhalten…

Mehr Informationen zu uns und zu unserer Reise findest du hier.


We are a family of three: Norman, Titus (*2014) and Nadine. Tested by travel and infested with wanderlust, we dared to embark on the adventure of traveling from Singapore to Munich – overland by public transport. Until Covid-19 thwarted our plans – but it couldn’t stop us…

You can find more information about us and our trip here.

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Now our 6-month journey is really over… We final Now our 6-month journey is really over… We finally arrived – after starting in Singapore – back in Munich!

We have experienced a lot, gained wonderful experiences and impressions of the world and the people in Asia and Europe and above all spent a lot of time as a family. Of course, due to COVID-19 we could not complete the overland route from Singapore to Munich as originally planned. But nevertheless, we are very happy to have made the best out of the 6 month break – and above all to have stayed healthy.

We’re closing the posts 🙁 (check out our blog at www.fromsingaporetomunich.com , too!) with a photo from our last leg in Hungary and the view out of the moving train – a very similar photo to the one we took on our first leg when we left Singapore by train to Malaysia.

Stay healthy! The next journey will come for sure! 😁
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After so much traveling 🧳, finally some time to After so much traveling 🧳, finally some time to relax at lake Balaton 🏖😊. Cycling 🚴‍♀️, beach time 🌊, and sunshine ☀️ around Keszthely. 
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Budapest in summer, some sightseeing around the Ha Budapest in summer, some sightseeing around the Halászbástya rewarded with a proper Dobosz cake 🍰😊!
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The dungeons 🐉 beneath Buda Castle 🏰. Dark, The dungeons 🐉 beneath Buda Castle 🏰. Dark, creepy, scary - and a lot of fun 😊!
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Budapest, Hungary 🇭🇺. We’ve been here befo Budapest, Hungary 🇭🇺. We’ve been here before and it is still an amazing city with wonderful old buildings, the Danube river, and so on. Spent the first day on Margaret Island to enjoy summertime ⛲️.
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The 8th country on our trip: Slovakia 🇸🇰 wit The 8th country on our trip: Slovakia 🇸🇰 with 2 days in wonderful Bratislava. Historic old town, art, castles 🏰 - and ice cream 😊.
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Impressions from wonderful Vienna 🇦🇹: 1) Bei Impressions from wonderful Vienna 🇦🇹: 1) Being welcomed with military honors at the Hofburg (just kidding 😊), 2) The impressive Hofburg, 3) Old Gänsehäufelbad where we spent time at the pool during a hot day, 4/5/6) the Prater with some fun in the evening and 7) leaving wonderful Vienna by train 🚂. Thanks @julisa2306 for the tipps and information!!!
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Beach time 🏖 at the Vienna Donaukanal. Sunset 🌇, drinks 🍹 and playing in the sand ⛱😊.
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Salzburg, Austria 🇦🇹. Some typical “Schnü Salzburg, Austria 🇦🇹. Some typical “Schnürlregen“, throwing stones into the Salzach and cooking with our beloved friends and hosts (the goggles 🥽 are for cutting the onions 🧅😊).
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Back on the road - better to say „rail” 😊! Back on the road - better to say „rail” 😊! We’re so happy to continue our trip, now with changed plans. On the same route as initially planned - but backwards. 🚂
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Home quarantine successfully completed 😊😷! J Home quarantine successfully completed 😊😷! Just the right amount of time at our temporary home to enjoy playing 🧩, cooking 🥘, baking 🍰, doing handicraft 🛠, yoga 🧘‍♀️, playing with the model railway 🚂, etc. etc. etc. But very soon the travel continues!!! 😁
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#happyholidays #holidays #holiday #vacation #2020 #happyholidays2020 #fun #happy #family #love #happy #lucky
Finally leaving China 😥 from an abandoned airpo Finally leaving China 😥 from an abandoned airport... after 4 months of travel through Asia. But our journey back home - from Singapore to Munich - is not yet fully over 😊. .
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#shanghai #pudong #shanghaipudong #pudongairport #flight #a350 #pvgfra .
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#fromsingaporetomunich #travelingwithkids #familytime #fiveyearold #sixyearold #overland #southeastasia #eastasia #china .
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#happyholidays #holidays #holiday #vacation #2020 #happyholidays2020 #fun #happy #family #love #happy #lucky
Shanghai Zoo 🐘🦒🐅. A great afternoon to on Shanghai Zoo 🐘🦒🐅. A great afternoon to once more enjoy China 🇨🇳 - with all its fascination, craziness, specialities and incredibilities 😊.
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#shanghai #zoo #shanghaizoo #animals #fascination #craziness #incredibilities #specialities .
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#fromsingaporetomunich #travelingwithkids #familytime #fiveyearold #sixyearold #overland #southeastasia #eastasia #china .
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#happyholidays #holidays #holiday #vacation #2020 #happyholidays2020 #fun #happy #family #love #happy #lucky
Mehr laden… Auf Instagram folgen

9 Countries Explored
36 Beds Slept
7,552 km by Train Traveled
2,345 km by Bus/Car Traveled
454 km by Ship Traveled

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