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From Singapore to Munich
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März 14, 2020März 11, 2020

Pakbeng – Luang Prabang

Deutsch / English

Von Thailand nach Laos per Bus und Boot, Tag 2: Von Pakbeng nach Luang Prabang

Meinen Bericht über die erste Etappe findest Du hier: Chiang Rai/Thailand – Pakbeng/Laos

Der Mekong: einer der längsten Flüsse der Welt, oft als „Lebensader Asiens“ bezeichnet. Und gebeutelt: chinesische Staudämme von gigantischen Ausmaßen entziehen den weiter südlich gelegenen Ländern das für die Bewässerung von Feldern nötige Wasser. Der Preis dafür, dass China im Gegenzug Devisen nach Laos und Kambodscha pumpt? Und die Infrastruktur aufrüstet, seitdem die Schnellbahntrasse von Vientiane nach Kunming gebaut wird?

Von all dem sehen wir auf unserer zweitägigen Bootsfahrt auf dem Mekong nur die überdimensionalen Baustellen der Eisenbahnbrücken, die über den rund 30 Meter breiten Flusslauf führen. Alle Beschriftungen auf Baumaschinen, Zementsäcken und Brückenpfeilern: eindeutig chinesisch.

Aber der Reihe nach:

„Sabaidee“, ertönt es von allen Seiten, als wir um halb acht zum Frühstück erscheinen. Die laotische Begrüßung klingt so ähnlich zur thailändischen, dass wir zunächst „Sawasdee“ verstehen. Dichter Nebel hängt über dem Mekong, der Regen hat die Luft deutlich abgekühlt, und ich ziehe gerne meine leichte Jacke über. Viel Zeit haben wir aber eh nicht, ein Instantkaffee, ein trockenes Baguette und ein eingepacktes Mittagessen zum Mitnehmen, schon drängt der Chef des Gästehauses zur Abfahrt.

Wir quetschen uns in das bereits voll besetzte Tuktuk und fahren damit zurück zum Anleger. Steil geht es den Uferhang hinunter zum Wasser, wo schon ein paar Holzboote bereit liegen. Wir sichern uns Sitzplätze, das heutige Boot ist ein klein wenig „nobler“ als das am Vortag.

Es dauert, bis endlich alle Passagiere an Bord sind, stets kommt noch jemand die provisorische Treppe hinuntergeeilt. Als dann auch tatsächlich alle 100 Sitzplätze besetzt sind, geht die Fahrt um kurz nach 9 Uhr los.

Zweiter Tag auf dem Wasser

Titus lässt sich Kapitel um Kapitel aus „Sophiechen und der Riese“ vorlesen, und zumindest die umsitzenden Deutschen kommen ebenso in den Genuss. Norman besorgt bei der jungen Laotin am Verkaufsstand zwei heiße Kaffee, die uns in der kühlen Morgenluft ein wenig wärmen und die Stimme ölen.

Das Bootsgeschäft ist ein Familienunternehmen. Der junge Kapitän, vom Aussehen her maximal Mitte Zwanzig, hat seine ganze Familie mit an Bord. Seine noch jüngere Frau verkauft den hungrigen und durstigen Passagieren am Kiosk Snacks und Getränke. Derweil hütet die Oma die Kinder: ein Mädchen um die 2 Jahre und ein Neugeborenes, das fast durchgehend im Tragetuch schläft.

Immerhin kann so Geld verdient werden. Überall entlang der Strecke liegen nämlich hunderte leerer Holzboote fest vertäut am Ufer – Nebensaison und rückläufige Besucherzahlen sorgen für schlechte Auslastung.

Titus ist wirklich erstaunlich zufrieden damit, einfach dazusitzen und mit wenig Bewegungsspielraum auszukommen. Hin und wieder futtert er ein Baguette, Kekse, einen Apfel oder Gummibärchen, hört ein Hörbuch, turnt auf seinem Sitz, singt und ersinnt Fantasiegeschichten oder malt, das scheint ihm an Unterhaltungsprogramm vollauf zu genügen.

Alles im Fluss

Während der 150 Kilometer weiter Fahrt Richtung Westen verändert sich die Landschaft kaum merklich. Die Ufer werden ein wenig schroffer und felsiger, die Berge in der Ferne höher, und der Kapitän muss häufig im Fluss liegenden Felsen ausweichen. Hin und wieder spritzt dabei sogar Wasser ins Boot. Die Luft ist nach wie vor kühl bzw. der Fahrtwind frisch. Erst am Nachmittag, als die Sonne so tief steht, dass sie ins Innere scheint, wärmt sie uns.

Wir passieren ein paar Brandherde, wo Flammen aus dem grünen Dickicht schlagen, aber auch hier ist von der gefürchteten Brandrodung der Reisfelder nichts zu sehen. Am späten Nachmittag wird der Verkehr auf dem Mekong dichter, und auch die Häuser am linken Ufer werden mehr. Wir passieren die Pak Ou-Höhle und legen gegen 17 Uhr am Slow Boat Pier von Luang Prabang an.

Ankunft in Luang Prabang

An der eher provisorischen Anlegestelle dauert es eine Weile, bis alle ihr Gepäck haben. Norman ist mit Titus bereits die steilen Treppe den Uferhang hinauf gestiegen und hat am Taxi-Kiosk ein Tuktuk organisiert, das uns mit ein paar anderen Reisenden die restlichen acht Kilometer bis in die Innenstadt bringt.

Zu Fuß gehen wir die restlichen Meter bis zu unserem Hostel und sind schon jetzt schwer begeistert. Die ehemalige Hauptstadt des Königreichs Laos war bis 1975 nicht nur Sitz der Monarchie, sondern auch des französischen Protektorats. Seit 1995 gehören die gesamte Altstadt mit ihren Kolonialbauten sowie 32 buddhistische Klöster zum UNESCO-Weltkulturerbe.

Und genau hier, in einer der ruhigen, malerischen Gässchen, liegt unsere Unterkunft. Vom Balkon aus erhaschen wir einen Blick auf den nur wenige Meter entfernten Mekong. Bei lauen Temperaturen lassen wir uns dort sogleich zum Abendessen nieder und freuen uns die sensationell günstigen Getränkepreise: den Longdrink gibt es für 20.000 Kip (ca. 2 Euro), das große Bier liegt bei 15.000 Kip (ca. 1,50 Euro). Laos, das fängt gut an!

Info:

Wir haben die gesamte Tour inklusive Abholung vom Hotel in Chiang Rai, Transfer über die Grenze und zwei Tage auf dem Slow Boat über unsere Unterkunft in Chiang Rai als Paket gebucht. Das Ganze hat 1650 Baht (46 Euro) pro Person gekostet. Die Übernachtung in Pakbeng ist nicht enthalten, die Unterkunft dort haben wir wie immer über Booking.com vorab reserviert.


Deutsch / English

From Thailand to Laos by Bus and Boat, Day 2: From Pakbeng to Luang Prabang

You can find my post about the first stage here: Chiang Rai/Thailand – Pakbeng/Laos

The Mekong: one of the longest rivers in the world, often called the “lifeline of Asia”. And shaken: Chinese dams of gigantic proportions deprive countries further south of the water needed to irrigate their fields. Is this the price Laos and Cambodia have to pay for the foreign currency China brings to these countries in return? And the infrastructure that has been upgraded since the Vientiane to Kunming high-speed railway line was built?

During our two-day boat trip on the Mekong we only see the oversized construction sites of the railway bridges that cross the 30-meter wide river. All inscriptions on construction machines, cement bags and bridge piers: obviously Chinese.

But let’s start at the beginning:

“Sabaidee”, we hear in the morning as we arrive for breakfast at half past seven. The Laotian greeting sounds so similar to the Thai greeting that we first understand “Sawasdee”. Thick fog hangs over the Mekong, the rain has cooled the air considerably, and I’m glad to wear my light jacket. But we don’t have much time anyway, an instant coffee, a dry baguette and a packed lunch to take away, and already the boss of the guesthouse urges us to leave.

We squeeze into the already full tuktuk and drive back to the pier. Steeply it goes down the river bank to the water, where a few wooden boats are tied and ready to take passengers on board. We find three comfortable seats in the front sections. Today’s boat is a little bit “fancier” than the one the day before. It takes time until finally all passengers are on board, some are quite late and rushing down the stairs – probably due to the few bars and the variety of drugs offered on the streets. Finally, all 100 seats are actually occupied, and the trip starts shortly after 9 o’clock.

Second day on the water

Titus enjoys chapter by chapter from “Sophie and the Giant”, and at least the Germans who are sitting around can enjoy my reading skills as well.

Norman brings two hot coffees from the young Laotian woman at the sales stand, which warm us up a little in the cool morning air.

The whole boat is run by a family. The young captain, who looks like he is in his mid-twenties, has his whole family on board. His younger wife sells snacks and drinks to the hungry and thirsty passengers at the kiosk. Meanwhile, the grandmother looks after the children: a girl around 2 years old and a newborn baby who sleeps almost continuously in a sling.

After all, money can be earned this way. Everywhere along the route, hundreds of empty wooden boats are moored firmly on the shore – low season and declining visitor numbers mean that capacity is not being fully utilised.

Titus is really astonishingly satisfied with just sitting there and getting by with little room to move. Every now and then he eats a baguette, biscuits, an apple or a gummy bear, listens to an audio book, does gymnastics on his seat, sings, makes up fantasy stories or paints – that seems to be enough entertainment for him.

Everything flows

During the 150 km trip to the west the landscape hardly changes. The banks become a little more rugged and rocky, the mountains higher in the distance, and the captain often has to avoid rocks lying in the river. Now and then water even splashes into the boat. The air is still cool and the wind is fresh. Only in the afternoon, when the sun is so low that it shines into the interior, it warms us.

We pass a few sources of fire where flames beat out of the green thicket, but even there is no sign of the dreaded slash-and-burn practice of the rice fields. In the late afternoon the traffic on the Mekong becomes denser, and the houses on the left bank become more and more. We pass the Pak Ou cave and moor at the Slow Boat Pier of Luang Prabang at about 5 pm.

Arrival in Luang Prabang

At the rather provisional pier it takes a while until everyone has their luggage. Norman has already climbed the steep stairs up the river bank with Titus and has organised a tuktuk at the taxi kiosk, which takes us and a few other travellers the remaining eight kilometres to the city centre.

On foot we walk the last couple of meters to our hostel and are already very enthusiastic. The former capital of the Kingdom of Laos was until 1975 not only the seat of the monarchy but also of the French protectorate. Since 1995 the whole old town with its colonial buildings as well as 32 Buddhist monasteries belong to the UNESCO world heritage.

And it is exactly here, in one of the quiet, picturesque alleys, that our accommodation is located. From the balcony we have a view of the Mekong only a few meters away. At mild temperatures we immediately sit down there for dinner and enjoy the sensationally low prices: the long drink is available for 20.000 Kip (approx. 2 Euro), the large beer is 15.000 Kip (approx. 1,50 Euro). Laos, that starts well!

Info:

We have booked the whole tour including pick up from the hotel in Chiang Rai, transfers across the border and two days on the Slow Boat via our accommodation in Chiang Rai as a package, for a total price of 1650 Baht (46 Euro) per person. The overnight stay in Pakbeng is not included. As usual we booked the accommodation there in advance via Booking.com.

Posted in East & Southeast Asia / Ost- & Südostasien, Laos
Tagged Boat, Laos, Luang Prabang, Mekong, Pakbeng
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About us / Über uns

Wir sind Norman, Titus (*2014) und Nadine, eine dreiköpfige Familie. Reiseerprobt und vom Fernweh befallen wagten wir uns an das Abenteuer, den Weg von Singapur nach München auf dem Landweg und nur per öffentlichen Verkehrsmitteln anzutreten. Leider machte uns Covid-19 einen Strich durch die Rechnung, aber wir ließen uns nicht aufhalten…

Mehr Informationen zu uns und zu unserer Reise findest du hier.


We are a family of three: Norman, Titus (*2014) and Nadine. Tested by travel and infested with wanderlust, we dared to embark on the adventure of traveling from Singapore to Munich – overland by public transport. Until Covid-19 thwarted our plans – but it couldn’t stop us…

You can find more information about us and our trip here.

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Now our 6-month journey is really over… We final Now our 6-month journey is really over… We finally arrived – after starting in Singapore – back in Munich!

We have experienced a lot, gained wonderful experiences and impressions of the world and the people in Asia and Europe and above all spent a lot of time as a family. Of course, due to COVID-19 we could not complete the overland route from Singapore to Munich as originally planned. But nevertheless, we are very happy to have made the best out of the 6 month break – and above all to have stayed healthy.

We’re closing the posts 🙁 (check out our blog at www.fromsingaporetomunich.com , too!) with a photo from our last leg in Hungary and the view out of the moving train – a very similar photo to the one we took on our first leg when we left Singapore by train to Malaysia.

Stay healthy! The next journey will come for sure! 😁
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After so much traveling 🧳, finally some time to After so much traveling 🧳, finally some time to relax at lake Balaton 🏖😊. Cycling 🚴‍♀️, beach time 🌊, and sunshine ☀️ around Keszthely. 
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Budapest in summer, some sightseeing around the Ha Budapest in summer, some sightseeing around the Halászbástya rewarded with a proper Dobosz cake 🍰😊!
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#fromsingaporetomunich #travelingwithkids #familytime #fiveyearold #sixyearold #overland #southeastasia #eastasia #china .
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#happyholidays #holidays #holiday #vacation #2020 #happyholidays2020 #fun #happy #family #love #happy #lucky
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9 Countries Explored
36 Beds Slept
7,552 km by Train Traveled
2,345 km by Bus/Car Traveled
454 km by Ship Traveled

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