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From Singapore to Munich
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  • Titus’ Blog
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    • Beschäftigungen für Kinder auf Langzeitreisen / How to keep your kids busy on long-term trips
  • About us / Über uns
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März 15, 2020März 11, 2020

In Love with Luang Prabang

Deutsch / English

Reisepause

So ein Reisetag macht müde, auch wenn man eigentlich gar nicht viel tut außer sitzen und gucken. Nach zwei Tagen auf dem Boot müssen wir uns also erst einmal erholen und haben keine großen Pläne.

Gleich am ersten Vormittag muss ich arbeiten und sitze den Vormittag über am Laptop. Norman und Titus machen sich auf den Weg. Ihre Mission: herausfinden, ob die Grenze zwischen Laos und China wieder geöffnet ist. Beim chinesischen Konsulat bekommen sie endlich handfeste Informationen, und kommen bepackt mit Einkäufen aus dem Supermarkt zurück.

In unserem Guesthouse gibt es nämlich die Möglichkeit, die Küche mitzubenutzen. Und Titus drängt seit Tagen darauf, dass er endlich einmal wieder kochen will. Gesagt, getan. In der erbärmlich schmutzigen Küche fasse ich alles nur mit spitzen Fingern an, will dem Kind aber nicht den Spaß verderben. Der kleine Chefkoch ist enthusiastisch bei der Sache und kocht fast im Alleingang einen Nudelauflauf, den er dann auch mit größtem Genuss verspeist.

Royal Palace

Am Nachmittag besichtige ich mit Titus die historische Altstadt und wir statten dem Königspalast einen Besuch ab. Zum Glück habe ich ein Tuch dabei, denn wie in einem Tempel muss man Schultern und Knie bedenken. Gar nicht so angenehm bei 35 Grad und brennender Sonne. Drinnen ist es zum Glück etwas kühler – und beeindruckend schön. Der Palast wurde 1975 nach der Machtergreifung der Kommunisten in ein Museum umgebaut, nach die königliche Familie in Umerziehungslager umgesiedelt worden war. Neben den königlichen Insignien (goldener Thron) sind die Wohn- und Schlafräume der Royals zu besichtigen, die erfrischend „normal“ aussehen und in einem sehr modernen Stil der 1930er Jahre eingerichtet waren. Absolut sehenswert ist die Wanddekoration des Thronsaals: Mosaiken aus japanischem Glas stellen Szenen aus laotischen Sagen dar.

Nach einer guten halben Stunde haben wir alles besichtigt und brauchen eine Abkühlung in einem der vielen netten Cafés, die die Hauptstraße säumen.

Das französische Erbe ist deutlich: allerorts gibt es französische Bäckereien, auf den Speisekarten stehen Wein und Käse, auf öffentlichen Gebäuden steht der Name stets auch auf Französisch angeschrieben. Das, gepaart mit der kolonialen Architektur der Altstadt und den gepflegten, palmengesäumten Straßen führt dazu, dass ich mir problemlos die Atmosphäre hier Anfang des 19. Jahrhunderts vorstellen kann.

Night Market

Titus ist auf dem Rückweg ins Hostel ein wenig schweigsam und er verzieht sich dort dann auch aufs Bett, wo er stundenlang Hörbücher hört. Da wir ihm Ruhe gönnen wollen, ziehe ich am Abend noch einmal alleine los und schlendere über den täglich stattfindenden Night Market. Kinder und Frauen bieten dort sagenhaft schöne Handarbeiten an: gewebte, in dunklem Indigo gefärbte Schals und Bettüberwürfe, Schüsseln aus Sandelholz, geflochtene Lampenschirme, handbestickte Schürzen, … Aber auch Schmuck, Schlüsselanhänger und Ringe aus entschärften Landminen, mit denen die Ärmsten ein bisschen Geld verdienen.

Ich möchte am liebsten einen Großeinkauf starten, denn die angebotenen Waren sind ein ganz anderes Kaliber als der übliche Souvenirkram. Leider geht mein Plan nicht auf, hier einzukaufen und alles per Paket nach Deutschland zu schicken, denn die Post leider bereits geschlossen und macht erst am Tag nach unserer geplanten Abreise wieder auf… Also bleibt es beim Bewundern, und ich mache mir einen schönen Abend auf einer Terrasse eines kleinen Bistros.

Messer schmieden bei Master Blacksmith

Am nächsten Tag ist Titus wieder eindeutig fit, und wir können bereits nach dem Frühstück aufbrechen. Per Tuktuk geht es nach Ban Hat Hian, einem kleinen Dörfchen ein paar Kilometer außerhalb Luang Prabangs. Leider geht auf der Fahrt dorthin Tuktuk Nummer 1 kaputt, der Fahrer setzt uns am Straßenrand ab, aber wir müssen zum Glück nicht lange auf die nächste Fahrgelegenheit warten. Die bringt uns dann aber sicher ans Ziel, wo wir nicht lange suchen müssen, bis wir ihn finden: Master Blacksmith. Der Schmied sitzt vor seiner kleinen Werkstatt, die er betreibt wie anno dazumal.

Wer mag, darf mitmachen und hier für umgerechnet 20 Euro sein eigenes Messer schmieden. Das lässt sich Titus natürlich nicht zweimal sagen, und Norman und er sind sogleich mit Feuereifer bei der Sache. Meine Aufgabe ist es, mit einer antiken Luftpumpe das Feuer in Gang zu halten, während die beiden mit schweren Hämmern auf den glühenden Stahl einschlagen. Immer wieder, bis er flach genug ist. Bei der zunehmenden Temperatur kommen beide ganz schön ins Schwitzen. Den Stahl gewinnt der gewiefte Handwerker aus alten Auto-Federungen.

Immer wieder schlendern Kinder vorbei, kommen Nachbarn zu Besuch oder tragen Frauen Einkäufe nach Hause. Hühner und Hunde spazieren herum, in dieses Dorf verirren sich wenige Besucher. Alles ist sehr einfach, entlang der ungeteerten, staubigen Wege fließt das Abwasser.

Schließlich wird der Schaft aus Sandelholz zugesägt, verleimt und poliert, dann die noch heiße Klinge in den Griff eingeklebt. Master Blacksmith benutzt dafür eine Art Harz, das fürchterlich stinkt beim Erhitzen. Anschließend wird die Klinge gehärtet und Titus darf selbst am Schleifstein damit arbeiten. Der Schmied schleift mir nebenbei noch gleich mein Taschenmesser, bis es gefährlich scharf ist.

Wir sind über und über mit Russ bedeckt, und Titus ist sehr verwundert, dass es über drei Stunden dauert, bis ein solches Messer fertig ist. Er ist dermaßen stolz auf sein Messer, dass sich die Anstrengung gelohnt hat. Ein tolles Mitbringsel von unserer Reise!

Verliebt in Luang Prabang

Danach steht eine ausgiebige Mittagspause an, die wir in der fast menschenleeren Altstadt verbringen. Der Charme der Stadt in der flirrenden Hitze mit den malerischen Flussufern lässt auch Norman nicht kalt, und ich überlege laut, ob wir nicht einfach die restlichen Wochen unserer Reise hier verbringen können. Leider kann ich mich damit nicht durchsetzen.

Am Abend schlendern wir gemeinsam über den Night Market, probieren kleine Kokosnuss-Küchlein und tauschen unsere restlichen thailändischen Geldscheine in laotische Kip um, während die Sonne knallorange leuchtend am staubigen Himmel untergeht.


Deutsch / English

Travel Break

Such a travel day makes usually makes all of us tired, even if we actually don’t do anything except sit and look. So after two days on the boat we have to recover first and have no big plans.

Right on the first morning I have to work and spend the morning sitting in front of my laptop. Norman and Titus are on their way to the city. Their mission: to find out if the border between Laos and China has been reopened. At the Chinese consulate they finally get some solid information and come back from the supermarket loaded with groceries.

In our guesthouse there is the possibility to use the kitchen. And Titus has been urging for days that he finally wants to cook again. No sooner said than done. In the miserably dirty kitchen, I touch everything with sharp fingers, but I don’t want to spoil the child’s fun. The little chef is enthusiastic about it and almost single-handedly cooks pasta, which he then eats with great pleasure.

Royal Palace

In the afternoon Titus and I visit the historical old town pay a visit to the royal palace. Luckily I have a pashmina shawl with me, because like in a temple everyone has to cover shoulders and knees. Not so pleasant at 35 degrees and with a burning sun. Luckily it is a bit cooler inside – and impressively beautiful. The palace was converted into a museum in 1975 after the communists seized power and after the royal family had been sent to re-education camps. In addition to the royal insignia (golden throne), the living and sleeping quarters of the royals can be viewed. They look surprisingly “normal” and were furnished in a very modern 1930s style. Absolutely worth seeing is the wall decoration of the throne room: mosaics of Japanese glass depict scenes from Laotian legends.

After a good half hour we have visited everything and need to cool down in one of the many nice cafés that line the main street. The French heritage is clearly visible: everywhere there are French bakeries, on the menus there is wine and cheese, on public buildings the name is always written in French. This, together with the colonial architecture of the historic centre and the well-kept palm-lined streets, leads to the fact that I can easily imagine the atmosphere here at the beginning of the 19th century.

Night Market

Titus is a little silent on the way back to the hostel and chills extensively on his bed where he listens to audio books for hours. Since we want to give him some rest, I go out alone again in the evening and stroll through the daily night market. Children and women offer fabulous handicrafts there: hand-woven scarves and bedspreads dyed in dark indigo, bowls made of sandalwood, woven lampshades, hand-embroidered aprons, … But also jewellery, key rings and rings from defused landmines, with which the poorest earn a little money.

I would like to start a bulk purchase, because the goods on offer are so special and completely different to the usual souvenir stuff. Unfortunately, my plan to shop here and send everything by post service to Germany does not work out, because the post office is unfortunately already closed and does not open again until the day after our planned departure… So I continue to admire the handicrafts and enjoy a nice evening on the terrace of a small bistro.

Forging knives with Master Blacksmith

The next day Titus is clearly fit again and we can leave already after breakfast. By tuktuk we go to Ban Hat Hian, a small village a few kilometres outside Luang Prabang. Unfortunately Tuktuk number 1 breaks down on the way there, the driver drops us off at the roadside. Fortunately we don’t have to wait long for the next ride which brings us safely to our destination, where we don’t have to search long until we find him: Master Blacksmith. The blacksmith sits in front of his small workshop, which he runs as in the old days. If you like, you can join in and forge your own knife here for the equivalent of 20 Euros. Of course, Titus won’t be told twice, and Norman and he are immediately very enthusiastic about it. My job is to keep the fire going with an antique air pump, while the two of them beat the glowing steel with heavy hammers. Again and again until it is flat enough. As the temperature rises, they both start to sweat. The steel is extracted by the crafty blacksmith from old car suspensions.

Again and again children stroll by, neighbours come to visit or women carry shopping home. Chickens and dogs wander around, few visitors get lost in this village. Everything is very simple, along the unpaved, dusty paths the sewage flows.

Finally, the sandalwood shaft is sawn, glued and polished, then the still hot blade is glued into the handle. Master Blacksmith uses a kind of resin for this, which stinks terribly when heated. Afterwards the blade is hardened and Titus is allowed to work with it himself on the grindstone. The blacksmith grinds my pocket knife until it is dangerously sharp.

We are covered all over with soot, and Titus is very surprised that it takes more than three hours to finish such a knife. He is so proud of his knife that it was worth the effort. A great souvenir from our trip!

In Love with Luang Prabang

Afterwards we have an extensive lunch break, which we spend in the almost deserted old town. The charm of the city in the shimmering heat with the picturesque river banks does not leave Norman cold either, and I think aloud whether we can not simply spend the remaining weeks of our trip here. Unfortunately, I can’t get away with it.

In the evening we stroll together through the Night Market, try small coconut cakes and exchange our remaining Thai bank notes for Laotian kip, while the sun is setting bright orange in the dusty sky.

Posted in East & Southeast Asia / Ost- & Südostasien, Laos
Tagged Activity, Laos, Luang Prabang, Sightseeing
1 Kommentar
Nadine
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Unternehmungen rund um Luang Prabang / Activities around Luang Prabang   

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About us / Über uns

Wir sind Norman, Titus (*2014) und Nadine, eine dreiköpfige Familie. Reiseerprobt und vom Fernweh befallen wagten wir uns an das Abenteuer, den Weg von Singapur nach München auf dem Landweg und nur per öffentlichen Verkehrsmitteln anzutreten. Leider machte uns Covid-19 einen Strich durch die Rechnung, aber wir ließen uns nicht aufhalten…

Mehr Informationen zu uns und zu unserer Reise findest du hier.


We are a family of three: Norman, Titus (*2014) and Nadine. Tested by travel and infested with wanderlust, we dared to embark on the adventure of traveling from Singapore to Munich – overland by public transport. Until Covid-19 thwarted our plans – but it couldn’t stop us…

You can find more information about us and our trip here.

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Now our 6-month journey is really over… We final Now our 6-month journey is really over… We finally arrived – after starting in Singapore – back in Munich!

We have experienced a lot, gained wonderful experiences and impressions of the world and the people in Asia and Europe and above all spent a lot of time as a family. Of course, due to COVID-19 we could not complete the overland route from Singapore to Munich as originally planned. But nevertheless, we are very happy to have made the best out of the 6 month break – and above all to have stayed healthy.

We’re closing the posts 🙁 (check out our blog at www.fromsingaporetomunich.com , too!) with a photo from our last leg in Hungary and the view out of the moving train – a very similar photo to the one we took on our first leg when we left Singapore by train to Malaysia.

Stay healthy! The next journey will come for sure! 😁
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After so much traveling 🧳, finally some time to After so much traveling 🧳, finally some time to relax at lake Balaton 🏖😊. Cycling 🚴‍♀️, beach time 🌊, and sunshine ☀️ around Keszthely. 
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Budapest in summer, some sightseeing around the Ha Budapest in summer, some sightseeing around the Halászbástya rewarded with a proper Dobosz cake 🍰😊!
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The dungeons 🐉 beneath Buda Castle 🏰. Dark, The dungeons 🐉 beneath Buda Castle 🏰. Dark, creepy, scary - and a lot of fun 😊!
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Budapest, Hungary 🇭🇺. We’ve been here befo Budapest, Hungary 🇭🇺. We’ve been here before and it is still an amazing city with wonderful old buildings, the Danube river, and so on. Spent the first day on Margaret Island to enjoy summertime ⛲️.
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The 8th country on our trip: Slovakia 🇸🇰 wit The 8th country on our trip: Slovakia 🇸🇰 with 2 days in wonderful Bratislava. Historic old town, art, castles 🏰 - and ice cream 😊.
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#shanghai #pudong #shanghaipudong #pudongairport #flight #a350 #pvgfra .
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#fromsingaporetomunich #travelingwithkids #familytime #fiveyearold #sixyearold #overland #southeastasia #eastasia #china .
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#happyholidays #holidays #holiday #vacation #2020 #happyholidays2020 #fun #happy #family #love #happy #lucky
Shanghai Zoo 🐘🦒🐅. A great afternoon to on Shanghai Zoo 🐘🦒🐅. A great afternoon to once more enjoy China 🇨🇳 - with all its fascination, craziness, specialities and incredibilities 😊.
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#shanghai #zoo #shanghaizoo #animals #fascination #craziness #incredibilities #specialities .
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#fromsingaporetomunich #travelingwithkids #familytime #fiveyearold #sixyearold #overland #southeastasia #eastasia #china .
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#happyholidays #holidays #holiday #vacation #2020 #happyholidays2020 #fun #happy #family #love #happy #lucky
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9 Countries Explored
36 Beds Slept
7,552 km by Train Traveled
2,345 km by Bus/Car Traveled
454 km by Ship Traveled

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