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From Singapore to Munich
  • Home
  • Countries / Länder
    • Singapore / Singapur
    • Malaysia
    • Thailand
    • Laos
    • China
    • Germany / Deutschland
    • Austria / Österreich
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  • Titus’ Blog
  • Travel tips / Reisetipps
    • Nachhaltig Reisen / Green Travel
    • Travel planning / Reiseplanung
    • Packing List / Packliste
    • First-aid kit / Reiseapotheke
    • Trains in Malaysia
    • Trains in Thailand
    • Trains in China
    • Trains and Buses in Europe
    • Beschäftigungen für Kinder auf Langzeitreisen / How to keep your kids busy on long-term trips
  • About us / Über uns
    • About us / Über uns
    • Route
    • Singapur³
    • Further travel / Weitere Reisen
    • Contact / Kontakt
März 17, 2020März 14, 2020

Luang Prabang – Luang Namtha

Deutsch / English

Höllentrip im Minibus

Schon bei der Ankunft am Busbahnhof gibt es Probleme: Wir haben drei Fahrkarten nach Luang Namtha gekauft, es sind aber nur noch zwei Sitzplätze frei. Der Fahrer sortiert um, klappt einen Extrasitz hinzu, und unter Gemurre nehmen alle wieder Platz. Mein Wunsch, mit Titus ganz vorne zu sitzen, wird leider nicht erfüllt, die beiden Damen vorne geben ihren Sitz nicht auf. Also sehen wir die schon fast unwirklich blendend orange gefärbte, aufgehende Sonne nur bruchstückhaft.

Also nehme ich mit dem Kind in der dritten Sitzreihe Platz, Norman quetscht sich nach ganz hinten. Punkt 7:30 Uhr geht die Fahrt los, und bereits am Ortsausgang von Luang Prabang gibt der Fahrer Gas. Wie ein Verrückter heizt er die Serpentinen hinauf, und ich muss Titus und mir doch entgegen meines Vorsatzes nach einer halben Stunde eine Tablette gegen Reiseübelkeit einwerfen. Titus hat sich da bereits ein erstes Mal übergeben, und ist bei der ersten Pause nach eineinhalb Stunden Fahrt fix und fertig.

Stunde um Stunde, Kilometer um Kilometer

Bei der Weiterfahrt tauschen Norman und ich Platz, denn ich muss schlafen. Währenddessen verbraucht er schon wieder eine Spucktüte aus unserem reichlichen Vorrat für das Kind, das leider auf seinem Sitzplatz nicht die geringste Chance hat, auch nur einen Blick auf die enge Straße mit ihren schier endlosen scharfen Kurven zu erhaschen. Für die Landschaft – hohe Berge, kleine Dörfchen – habe ich auch keinen Blick übrig, zu schläfrig macht mich die Tablette. Und ich bin froh um jeden einzelnen Kilometer, den ich von dieser Fahrt nichts mitbekomme.

Etwa nach der Hälfte der Strecke hält der Bus in einem Dorf an, hier machen wir zwanzig Minuten Mittagspause. Essen will keiner von uns, wir teilen uns zu dritt eine Limo und Titus knabbert ein paar Bissen trockenes Brot. Die Toilette hier am Busbahnhof befindet sich in einem Verschlag, in dem zusätzlich eine Familie wohnt und durch die Klobenutzungsgebühr ein wenig Geld verdient. Das etwa 8jährige Mädchen putzt vergeblich den schmutzigen Boden und sammelt gewissenhaft die Geldscheine ein.

Ein Jahr zu früh für den Zug

Die Fahrt geht weiter. Immerhin sind ein paar Fahrgäste ausgestiegen und wir haben ein wenig mehr Beinfreiheit. Titus schläft endlich ein und verpennt die restliche Strecke, die nach dem Überqueren mehrerer Gebirgsketten endlich weniger kurvig wird. Am Wegrand laufen Scharen von Kindern, die kleinsten sind höchstens vier Jahre alt, mit Eimern, um vom Fluß Wasser zu holen. Eine Wasserversorgung gibt es hier offenbar nicht.
Unten im Tal staunen wir nicht schlecht: Hier baut China den Schnellzug, der ab 2021 in nur wenigen Stunden von Vientiane bis Kunming fahren wird (und irgendwann bis Singapur). Die Baustellen dafür sind gewaltig, eine zweispurige Eisenbahntrasse auf meterhohen Stützpfeilern wird in die Landschaft gefräst und Tunnel um Tunnel gesprengt. Wie bequem dann diese Strecke zu bewältigen sein wird, denke ich die ganze Zeit wehmütig.

Stattdessen rast unserer Fahrer ungehemmt weiter. Die Straße wird zunehmend schlechter, die vielen schwer beladenen LKW, die das Baumaterial zur Zugtrasse bringen, haben Schlagloch um Schlagloch zu verantworten. Wir passieren eine Unfallstelle, an der ein eben solcher Laster kurz zuvor in einer engen Kurve umgekippt ist; kurz darauf sehen wir links neben der Fahrbahn viele Meter den Hang hinunter das Wrack eines solche Schwertransporters liegen. Aber auch das sorgt nicht für ein moderateres Fahrtempo…

Endlich in Luang Namtha

Nach sieben Stunden Fahrt für läppische 320 Kilometer erreichen wir am frühen Nachmittag endlich Luang Namtha. Ein Tuktuk bringt uns vom heruntergekommenen Busbahnhof zum einzig netten Hostel der Stadt, wo wir für ein Dreibettzimmer ganze 12 Euro für die Nacht bezahlen. Titus ist inzwischen wieder wach, hat Hunger und genießt einen gemütlichen Nachmittag mit uns.

Am Abend drehen wir eine Runde um den Block. Luang Namtha ist eigentlich der Ausgangspunkt zum nahegelegenen Nationalpark, wo verschiedene laotische (oder, wie Titus sagt: laosische) Stämme besucht werden können und es viele Wandermöglichkeiten gibt. Aber die Glanzzeit des Städtchens scheint vorüber zu sein, denn hier ist schlichtweg gar nichts los. Auf dem Nachtmarkt gibt es an ein paar Ständen Essen, Obst und Gemüse, doch alles sieht so schäbig und wenig appetitlich aus, dass wir doch lieber ins einzige annehmbare Lokal gehen, in dem sich sämtliche Touristen (so 10 an der Zahl) zum Abendessen einfinden. Auch hier ist es fast schon beschämend günstig, wo an jeder Ecke Armut sichtbar ist. So geht unser letzter Abend in Laos sehr unglamourös zu Ende, wie gerädert von der anstrengenden Fahrt fallen wir alle früh ins Bett.


Deutsch / English

Trip to Hell in a Minibus

The first problems occur already on arrival at the bus station: We bought three tickets to Luang Namtha, but there are only two seats left. The driver rearranges the passengers, adds an extra seat, and under grumbling everyone takes his seat again. My wish to sit in the front with Titus is unfortunately not fulfilled, the two ladies in front do not give up their seats. So we only see the almost unreal, blinding orange, rising sun in fragments because Titus and I have to take a seat in the third row. Norman squeezes himself to the very back.

At 7:30 a.m. sharp the trip starts and already at the end of Luang Prabang the driver accelerates. Like a madman he heats up the serpentines, and I have to give Titus and me a tablet against travel sickness after half an hour. Titus has already thrown up for the first time, and at the first break after an hour and a half of driving he is completely exhausted.

Hour after hour, kilometre after kilometre

As we continue our journey Norman and I swap places, because I have to sleep. Meanwhile, he already uses up another spit bag from our plentiful supply for the child, who unfortunately has not the slightest chance to catch a glimpse of the narrow road with its endless sharp curves. For the landscape – high mountains, small villages – I catch only few glimpses, the tablet makes me too sleepy. And I’m glad for every single kilometre that I don’t notice anything from this ride.

About halfway the way the bus stops in a village, here we have a twenty minute lunch break. None of us wants to eat, the three of us share a soda and Titus nibbles a few bites of dry bread. The toilet here at the bus station is located in a shed, in which a family lives next to it and earns a little money through the toilet fee. The approximately 8-year-old girl cleans the dirty floor in vain and collects the banknotes conscientiously.

One year too early for the train

The journey continues. At least a few passengers got off and we have a little more legroom. Titus finally falls asleep and misses the rest of the route, which becomes less twisty after crossing several mountain ranges. At the roadside flocks of children, the smallest are four years old at most, run with buckets to fetch water from the river. Apparently there is no water supply here.

Down in the valley we are quite astonished: China is building a high-speed railway, which will be running from Vientiane to Kunming in only a few hours from 2021 (and all the way to Singapore one day). The construction sites for this are enormous, a two-lane railway line on metre-high pillars is cut into the landscape and tunnel after tunnel is blown up. How comfortable this route will be, I think the whole time wistfully.

Instead, our driver races on uninhibitedly. The road is getting worse and worse, the many heavily loaded trucks that bring the construction material to the train tracks are responsible for pothole after pothole. We pass an accident site where a truck of this type has overturned in a tight bend shortly before; soon afterwards we see the wreck of such a heavy truck lying many meters down the slope on the left side of the road. But also this does not cause a more moderate driving speed…

Finally in Luang Namtha

After seven hours of driving for a paltry 320 kilometres we finally reach Luang Namtha in the early afternoon. A tuktuk brings us from the run-down bus station to the only nice hostel in town, where we pay 12 Euros for a triple room for the night. Meanwhile, Titus woke up, is hungry and enjoys a comfortable afternoon with us.

In the evening we go for a walk around the block. Luang Namtha is actually the starting point to the nearby national park, where different Lao tribes can be visited and there are many hiking and outdoor activities. But the heyday of the town seems to be over, because there is simply nothing going on here.

At the night market there are some stalls where you can buy food, fruits and vegetables, but everything looks so shabby and not very appetizing that we prefer to go to the only acceptable restaurant where all tourists (about 10 in number) come together for dinner. Also here it is almost shamefully cheap, where poverty is visible at every corner. So our last evening in Laos ends very unglamorous, we all fall into bed early very tired from the exhausting drive.

Posted in East & Southeast Asia / Ost- & Südostasien, Laos
Tagged Bus, Laos, Luang Namtha, Luang Prabang
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Nadine
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   Unternehmungen rund um Luang Prabang / Activities around Luang Prabang
Luang Namtha/Laos – Jinghong/China   

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About us / Über uns

Wir sind Norman, Titus (*2014) und Nadine, eine dreiköpfige Familie. Reiseerprobt und vom Fernweh befallen wagten wir uns an das Abenteuer, den Weg von Singapur nach München auf dem Landweg und nur per öffentlichen Verkehrsmitteln anzutreten. Leider machte uns Covid-19 einen Strich durch die Rechnung, aber wir ließen uns nicht aufhalten…

Mehr Informationen zu uns und zu unserer Reise findest du hier.


We are a family of three: Norman, Titus (*2014) and Nadine. Tested by travel and infested with wanderlust, we dared to embark on the adventure of traveling from Singapore to Munich – overland by public transport. Until Covid-19 thwarted our plans – but it couldn’t stop us…

You can find more information about us and our trip here.

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Now our 6-month journey is really over… We final Now our 6-month journey is really over… We finally arrived – after starting in Singapore – back in Munich!

We have experienced a lot, gained wonderful experiences and impressions of the world and the people in Asia and Europe and above all spent a lot of time as a family. Of course, due to COVID-19 we could not complete the overland route from Singapore to Munich as originally planned. But nevertheless, we are very happy to have made the best out of the 6 month break – and above all to have stayed healthy.

We’re closing the posts 🙁 (check out our blog at www.fromsingaporetomunich.com , too!) with a photo from our last leg in Hungary and the view out of the moving train – a very similar photo to the one we took on our first leg when we left Singapore by train to Malaysia.

Stay healthy! The next journey will come for sure! 😁
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After so much traveling 🧳, finally some time to After so much traveling 🧳, finally some time to relax at lake Balaton 🏖😊. Cycling 🚴‍♀️, beach time 🌊, and sunshine ☀️ around Keszthely. 
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Budapest in summer, some sightseeing around the Ha Budapest in summer, some sightseeing around the Halászbástya rewarded with a proper Dobosz cake 🍰😊!
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The dungeons 🐉 beneath Buda Castle 🏰. Dark, The dungeons 🐉 beneath Buda Castle 🏰. Dark, creepy, scary - and a lot of fun 😊!
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The 8th country on our trip: Slovakia 🇸🇰 wit The 8th country on our trip: Slovakia 🇸🇰 with 2 days in wonderful Bratislava. Historic old town, art, castles 🏰 - and ice cream 😊.
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Impressions from wonderful Vienna 🇦🇹: 1) Bei Impressions from wonderful Vienna 🇦🇹: 1) Being welcomed with military honors at the Hofburg (just kidding 😊), 2) The impressive Hofburg, 3) Old Gänsehäufelbad where we spent time at the pool during a hot day, 4/5/6) the Prater with some fun in the evening and 7) leaving wonderful Vienna by train 🚂. Thanks @julisa2306 for the tipps and information!!!
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Beach time 🏖 at the Vienna Donaukanal. Sunset 🌇, drinks 🍹 and playing in the sand ⛱😊.
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Climbing 🧗‍♀️ the Kleiner Gjaidstein next Climbing 🧗‍♀️ the Kleiner Gjaidstein next to the Hoher Dachstein and Hallstätter Glacier. A big tour 🥾 for a small man 😊.
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#shanghai #pudong #shanghaipudong #pudongairport #flight #a350 #pvgfra .
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9 Countries Explored
36 Beds Slept
7,552 km by Train Traveled
2,345 km by Bus/Car Traveled
454 km by Ship Traveled

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