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From Singapore to Munich
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    • China
    • Germany / Deutschland
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  • Titus’ Blog
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    • First-aid kit / Reiseapotheke
    • Trains in Malaysia
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    • Beschäftigungen für Kinder auf Langzeitreisen / How to keep your kids busy on long-term trips
  • About us / Über uns
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April 5, 2020April 5, 2020

Baisha & Lijiang

Deutsch / English

Tagesausflug auf den Spuren der Naxi

Seltsamerweise schlafen wir alle unheimlich schlecht. Nach den ruhigen, kühlen Nächten in der Quarantäne ist es nun viel zu warm, da die Fußbodenheizung nicht auszuschalten ist. Alle werfen sich die ganze Nacht im Bett herum, und ich bin längst vor dem Klingeln des Weckers wach.

Um 9 Uhr steigen wir nördlichen Ein-/Ausgang der Altstadt, die ja autofrei ist, in das für uns bereitstehende Auto. Der junge Fahrer bringt uns zunächst die Schnellstraße entlang Richtung Jade Snow Mountain, denn wir möchten gerne mit der Gondel auf diesen beeindruckenden Berg fahren. Im Gepäck haben wir natürlich Skiunterwäsche, Handschuhe, Mützen und warme Jacken. Aber bereits die Zufahrt ist abgeriegelt, die Insassen jedes Fahrzeugs werden kontrolliert. Nach einem Telefonat und einem kurzen Wortwechsel mit unserem Fahrer erhalten wir die schon im Vorfeld befürchtete Absage: Ausländer dürfen leider nicht zum Berg, der ist immer noch nur für Chinesen geöffnet. Schade, aber einen Versuch war es wert.

Baisha

Unser Fahrer ist zum Glück flexibel und steuert mit uns das kleine Städtchen Baisha an. Hier haben sich im 12. Jahrhundert die ersten Siedler der Naxi aus den Hochebenen Tibets kommend niedergelassen, um Handel zu treiben. Noch heute zeugen historische Gebäude von der Geschäftstüchtigkeit, ebenso die Schulen, an denen die traditionelle Stickkunst gelehrt und erhalten wird und vor allem die kaum noch verbreitete, eigene Bildsprache der Naxi. Die erinnert an Höhlenmalereien oder ägyptische Piktogramme und ist zum Beispiel an den Stadttoren zu sehen.

Wir schlendern also in der morgendlichen, kühlen Luft durch das langsam erst erwachende Dörflein und werden freundlich von den Bewohnern gegrüßt, die sich am Marktplatz versammelt haben.

Die Hauptattraktion von Baisha, die berühmten Wandmalereien, die im Dabaoji-Palast aufbewahrt werden, können wir leider nicht besichtigen, da dort gerade Umbauarbeiten stattfinden – wenn wir die Damen am Eingang richtig verstanden haben…

Black Dragon Pool

Das nächste Ziel ist nun der Black Dragon Pool im Herzen von Lijiang, den wir bereits vor über zwei Wochen besichtigen wollten. Damals wurden wir abgewiesen, doch diesmal halten wir die magischen Quarantäne-Entlassungspapiere in den Händen und dürfen nach diversen App-Registrierungen und ganz altmodischen Ausfüllen einer Liste mit unseren Reisepass-Daten tatsächlich durch das imposante Tor den malerischen Park betreten.

Der ist an diesem sonnigen Montag gut besucht, vor allem Familien mit kleinen Kindern füttern die wohlgenährten Fische im See und genießen die lauen Temperaturen. Immer noch tragen die meisten eine Gesichchtsmaske, aber längst nicht mehr alle Spaziergänger. Auf der in jedem Reiseführer abgebildeten Brücke machen auch wir ein Familienfoto, leider versteckt sich der Jade Snow Mountain im Hintergrund heute ein wenig in den Wolken.

Altstadt von Lijiang

Beflügelt vom Erfolg dieser Besichtigung versuchen wir nun auch unser Glück im historischen Stadtzentrum von Lijiang, in das uns vor zwei Wochen ebenfalls kein Einlass gewährt wurde. Und siehe da: nach erneutem Papierkram und dem Scannen diverser QR-Codes, nach einer Temperaturmessung mit fragwürdigen Geräten (die in der prallen Sonne lagen) dürfen wir auch hier hinein. Und erleben sogleich eine echte Überraschung, tummeln sich hier doch vergleichsweise viele Touristen. Natürlich ausschließlich Chinesen, aber auch zu „normalen“ Zeiten verirren sich nicht allzu viele Ausländer hierher.

Geschäfte, Cafés und Restaurants haben fast allesamt geöffnet und freuen sich über Kundschaft, denn die Schließungen der vergangenen drei Monate haben sicherlich zu empfindlichen finanziellen Einbußen bei allen Unternehmen geführt, die auf Touristen angewiesen sind.

Wir lassen uns durch die überwältigend malerischen Gässchen treiben, die teilweise fast schon kitschig anmuten. An jeder Ecke gibt es Instagram-Spots, werden Selfies und Familienfotos gemacht, und nicht alles, was so an den Hauswänden herumhängst und –steht ist historisch belegbar.

Nach einer Stärkung in einem kleinen Lokal, wo Norman trotz fragwürdiger Übersetzung einen leckeren Snack ausfindig macht, schlendern wir entlang der Kanäle ans andere Ende der Altstadt zum Südtor, wo unser Fahrer uns auch schon erwartet.

Auf der Rückfahrt zurück in den Nachbarort Shuhe, unserem „Zuhause“, winken wir im Vorüberfahren dem Hotel zu, in dem wir die zweiwöchige Quarantäne verbracht haben. Es kommt mir vor, als wäre das in einem anderen Leben passiert, so aus Zeit und Raum gefallen habe ich diese 14 Tage empfunden.


Deutsch / English

Day trip around the Naxi heritage

Strangely enough, we all sleep very badly. After the quiet, cool nights in the quarantine it is now much too warm as the underfloor heating cannot be switched off. Everybody is tossing and turning in bed all night long and I’m up long before the alarm clock rings.

At 9 o’clock we get into the car waiting for us at the northern entrance/exit of the old town, which is car-free. First, the young driver takes us alongside the motorway in direction to Jade Snow Mountain, as we would like to take the gondola up to this impressive mountain. In our luggage we of course have several layers of clothes, gloves, caps and warm jackets. But soon we reach a checkpoint on the road where the passengers of each vehicle are controlled. After a phone call and a short exchange of words with our driver, we hear what we had feared in advance: unfortunately, foreigners are not allowed to visit the mountain, it is still only open for Chinese people. What a pity, but it was worth a try.

Baisha

Fortunately our driver is flexible and drives us to the small town of Baisha. In the 12th century the first settlers of the Naxi, coming from the Tibetan highlands, settled here to start trading. Even today, historical buildings testify to their business acumen, as do the schools where the traditional art of embroidery is taught and preserved. Above all, the Naxi’s own pictorial language, which is hardly ever used anymore, can be seen on murals and gates. The sign language is reminiscent of cave paintings or Egyptian pictograms and can be found for example at the city gates. So we stroll in the cool morning air through the slowly awakening little village and are greeted friendly by the inhabitants, who have gathered at the market place.

Unfortunately we cannot visit the main attraction of Baisha, the famous murals, which are kept in the Dabaoji palace, because there is maintenance work going on – if we understood the ladies at the entrance correctly…

Black Dragon Pool

The next destination is now the Black Dragon Pool in the heart of Lijiang, which we tried to visit more than two weeks ago. At that time we were turned away, but this time we hold the magic quarantine release papers in our hands and after several app registrations and very old-fashioned filling out a form with our passport details we are actually allowed to enter the picturesque park through the impressive gate.

The park is well visited on this sunny Monday, especially families with small children feed the well-fed fish in the lake and enjoy the mild temperatures.

Still most of the people wear a face mask, but not all of them wear one anymore. On the bridge shown in every travel guide we make sure to take a family photo, unfortunately the Jade Snow Mountain in the background hides itself in the clouds today.

Old Town of Lijiang

Encouraged by the success of this tour, we now try our luck in the historic city centre of Lijiang, to which we were also not allowed to enter two weeks ago. And lo and behold: after some more paperwork and the scanning of various QR codes, after a temperature measurement with questionable devices (which were lying in the blazing sun) we are allowed to enter here as well.

And we immediately experience a real surprise, as there are comparatively many tourists here. Of course only Chinese, but also at “normal” times not too many foreigners come here.

Shops, cafés and restaurants are open and happy to welcome customers, and we let ourselves drift through the overwhelmingly picturesque alleys, some of which seem almost kitschy.

Umbrellas in Lijiang Old Town

At every corner there are Instagram spots, selfies and family photos are taken, and not everything that hangs and stands on the walls of the houses is historically verifiable.

Bridge in Lijiang Old Town

After a refreshment in a small restaurant, where Norman finds a tasty snack despite the questionable translation, we stroll along the canals to the other end of the old town to the south gate, where our driver is already waiting for us.

On the way back to the neighbouring village Shuhe, our “home”, we wave to the hotel where we spent the two-week quarantine. It seems to me as if this had happened in another life, so out of time and space I felt these 14 days.

Posted in China, East & Southeast Asia / Ost- & Südostasien
Tagged China, Lijiang, Sightseeing
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Nadine
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About us / Über uns

Wir sind Norman, Titus (*2014) und Nadine, eine dreiköpfige Familie. Reiseerprobt und vom Fernweh befallen wagten wir uns an das Abenteuer, den Weg von Singapur nach München auf dem Landweg und nur per öffentlichen Verkehrsmitteln anzutreten. Leider machte uns Covid-19 einen Strich durch die Rechnung, aber wir ließen uns nicht aufhalten…

Mehr Informationen zu uns und zu unserer Reise findest du hier.


We are a family of three: Norman, Titus (*2014) and Nadine. Tested by travel and infested with wanderlust, we dared to embark on the adventure of traveling from Singapore to Munich – overland by public transport. Until Covid-19 thwarted our plans – but it couldn’t stop us…

You can find more information about us and our trip here.

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Now our 6-month journey is really over… We final Now our 6-month journey is really over… We finally arrived – after starting in Singapore – back in Munich!

We have experienced a lot, gained wonderful experiences and impressions of the world and the people in Asia and Europe and above all spent a lot of time as a family. Of course, due to COVID-19 we could not complete the overland route from Singapore to Munich as originally planned. But nevertheless, we are very happy to have made the best out of the 6 month break – and above all to have stayed healthy.

We’re closing the posts 🙁 (check out our blog at www.fromsingaporetomunich.com , too!) with a photo from our last leg in Hungary and the view out of the moving train – a very similar photo to the one we took on our first leg when we left Singapore by train to Malaysia.

Stay healthy! The next journey will come for sure! 😁
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After so much traveling 🧳, finally some time to After so much traveling 🧳, finally some time to relax at lake Balaton 🏖😊. Cycling 🚴‍♀️, beach time 🌊, and sunshine ☀️ around Keszthely. 
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Mehr laden… Auf Instagram folgen

9 Countries Explored
36 Beds Slept
7,552 km by Train Traveled
2,345 km by Bus/Car Traveled
454 km by Ship Traveled

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