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From Singapore to Munich
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  • Countries / Länder
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Shuhe: Ausflüge und Aktivitäten / Outdoor Activities

April 7, 2020April 5, 2020, China East & Southeast Asia / Ost- & Südostasien
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Ausflüge und Aktivitäten rund um Shuhe

Am Dienstag ruft für mich vormittags die Arbeit. Im Aufenthaltsraum unseres Hotels lasse ich mich nach dem Frühstück häuslich nieder und kann dort ungestört ein paar Stunden korrigieren und telefonieren. Die Katze des Hauses schläft derweil ungerührt auf einem Stuhl am Nebentisch. Ich bin wirklich angenehm überrascht, wie gut auf unserer gesamten Reise bisher die Internetverbindungen funktioniert haben!

Auf dem Rücken der Pferde…

Da Titus den ganzen Vormittag über mit Norman malt, bastelt und lernt, nehme ich ihn nach dem Mittagessen mit zu einem Ausflug der ganz besonderen Art. In der Gasse hinter unserem Hotel steht nämlich ein Pferd mitsamt resoluter Pferdeführerin bereit. Mühsam schwinge ich mich als bekennende Pferdeskeptikerin auf den Rücken von „Charly“. Das Kind ist dagegen hellauf begeistert, schließlich entwickelt es bereits seit Jahren eine immer ernsthaftere Pferdeleidenschaft.

Wir reiten durch die Gassen von Shuhe, was von den Einheimischen mit großem Amüsement gewürdigt wird. Ein wenig kann ich nun nachvollziehen, wie es sich von Hunderten von Jahren angefühlt haben mag, als Teil einer Handelskarawane an diesem Umschlagplatz anzukommen.

Unser Pferdchen trabt munter über steinerne Brücken und zwischen eng stehenden Häusern hindurch, bis es am Ortsausgang aufwärts geht. Buchstäblich über Stock und Stein geht es einen schmalen, staubigen Wanderweg bergauf, und ich halte mich krampfhaft am provisorischen Sattel fest, während Titus selig den Pferdehals tätschelt.

Nach einer dreiviertel Stunde stehen wir auf einer Anhöhe mit Blick über die Städte Baisha, Shuhe und Lijiang. Die Pferdeführerin, die gleichmütig in Schuhen mit Absatz (!) voranmarschiert ist, nimmt mir das Handy aus der Hand und schießt Foto um Foto. Schließlich bedeutet sie uns abzusteigen. Zu Fuß wandern wir einen schmalen Pfad entlang, bis wir an einem Schrein ankommen, der über und über mit Gebetsfahnen geschmückt ist.

Auf dem Rückweg, bei dem es steil bergab geht, verzichte ich auf das Reiterlebnis und laufe lieber, worüber Titus tatsächlich sehr erbaut ist, darf er nun doch (fast) ganz alleine reiten.

Unter blühenden Bäumen geht es zurück durch das Städtchen, und zur Belohnung bekommt Charly am Ende natürlich noch einen Apfel!

Und Titus ein Eis im nahe gelegenen Supermarkt, in dem wir für ein paar Yuan auch noch Knetmasse erstehen – der restliche Nachmittag ist also gerettet!

Hilfsbereitschaft

Am Abend führt uns ein hier lebender Amerikaner zu einem netten kleinen Lokal. Normans Beitritt zur örtlichen WeChat-Gruppe und seine Bitten um Ratschläge hat ihn derart bekannt gemacht, dass der Mann uns quasi auf der Straße erkennt und seine Hilfe anbietet. Tatsächlich nimmt die Auswahl an geöffneten Restaurants von Tag zu Tag zu.

Wir müssen leider draußen bleiben

Lijiang und die Nachbarorte warten nicht nur mit bezaubernden Altstädten auf, sondern in der Umgebung gibt es noch so manche Attraktion zu bewundern: Der Jade Snow Mountain und die Tiger Leaping Gorge gehören zu den Top-Sehenswürdigkeiten, außerdem die nicht allzu weit entfernten Städte Shangri-La und Dali. Leider bleiben die uns allesamt verwehrt, denn nicht nur der Berg ist für Ausländer gesperrt, sondern auch die anderen Sehenswürdigkeiten und Naturschauspiele.

Wir müssen uns also alternative Beschäftigungen ausdenken, und zum Glück lässt es sich einfach vom Hotel aus loswandern. Aus der Stadt hinaus ist stets Vorsicht geboten, denn es gibt fast ebenso viele Hunde wie Einwohner, vor jedem Geschäft liegt ein Vierbeiner, die Tiere spazieren auch ganz auf sich allein gestellt durch die Gassen – und hinterlassen dabei so einiges. Zwar sind die eifrigen Straßenkehrerinnen den lieben langen Tag damit beschäftigt, die Wege sauberzuhalten, trotzdem ist Vorsicht geboten!

Sobald wir die Häuser hinter uns gelassen und den Weg Richtung Berge eingeschlagen haben, sind wir fast allein auf weiter Flur unterwegs. Durch kaum erkennbare Trampelpfade schlagen wir uns bergauf, durch Pinienwälder mit federndem Untergrund und über staubige Abschnitte, deren orangeroter Staub unsere Schuhe und Hosen bei jedem Schritt einfärbt.

Es tut gut, einfach loslaufen zu können, die Luft ist klar und der stetige Wind sorgt für willkommene Abkühlung. Außer den unermüdlich über das Tal kreisenden Lösch-Hubschraubern, die im Falle eines Waldbrands sofort eingreifen können, und dem Rauschen der Pinien ist es still.

Hiking around Shuhe

Wǒ bù huì shuō zhōngwén

Beim Abstieg kehren wir in einem der wieder geöffneten Cafés ein, wo Titus wieder einmal Cheesecake verputzt. Ich absolviere derweil meine tägliche Chinesisch-Einheit. Von Tag zu Tag mehrt sich mein Chinesisch-Wortschatz. Tiere wie Pferd, Katze und Hund benenne ich fehlerfrei, und beim abendlichen Mahl im Restaurant verstehe ich sogar „meiyou“ (haben wir nicht). Nur die Bestellung von zwei Bier, die ich gleich darauf selbstbewusst tätige, schlägt fehl. Stattdessen stellt man uns das in China allgegenwärtige heiße Wasser auf den Tisch. Dafür schmecken Mapo Tofu, Mais, eine Art Rösti und Spinat mit viel Knoblauch so gut, dass sogar der sonst sehr skeptische Titus mit Genuss isst. Und das Bier kriegen wir am Ende doch noch.

Appetit auf chinesische Köstlichkeiten

Überhaupt essen wir ganz ausgezeichnet: Angefangen von der köstlichen Nudelsuppe im Yunnan-Stil zum Frühstück (wärmt den Magen und hält satt bis abends!) über erstaunlich guten Kaffee am Nachmittag in entzückenden kleinen Cafés bis hin zu Hot Pot (Fondue auf Chinesisch) am Abend.

Um den Appetit anzuheizen, sorgen wir für viel Bewegung, und ich bin wieder einmal begeistert davon, wie engagiert Titus wandert. Kein Weg ist ihm zu steil, kein Pfad zu schmal, solange wir ausreichend Proviant dabei haben und bereit sind, eine seiner vielen Fantasiegeschichten mit ihm fortzuspinnen. Für die beeindruckend schönen Gebetsfahnen, die um Stupas flattern hat er dagegen kaum einen Blick übrig. Sie sind ein deutlicher Beweis dafür, dass wir uns hier in den östlichen Ausläufern des Himalayas befinden.

Passend dazu lotst Norman uns am Abend in ein tibetisches Restaurant, das mit großen Gebetsmühlen am Eingang und vielen Bildern aus Lhasa geschmückt ist. Hier schmeckt allerdings zumindest Titus die Menü-Auswahl nicht ganz so gut: heißer Tee mit streng riechender Yak-Milch und eher fade, bräunliche Buchweizen-Fladen bleiben fast unberührt.


Activities around Shuhe

On Tuesday morning, I have to work in the morning. After breakfast I settle down in the lounge of our hotel and can proof-read and call my colleagues for a few hours without being disturbed. Meanwhile the cat of the house sleeps unmoved on a chair at the next table. I am really pleasantly surprised how well the internet connections worked during our whole trip so far!

Sitting in the saddle of a horse

Since Titus spends the whole morning doing handicrafts and taking classes with Norman, I take him on a very special excursion after lunch. In the alley behind our hotel a horse with a determined horse guide is already waiting for us. As a self-confessed horse sceptic, I laboriously swing myself onto the back of “Charly”. Titus on the other hand is very enthusiastic, after all he has been developing an increasingly serious passion for horses for years.

We ride through the alleys of Shuhe, which is appreciated by the locals with great amusement. Now I can understand a little how it may have felt hundreds of years ago to arrive at this reloading point as part of a trading caravan.

Our little horse trots briskly over stone bridges and through narrow streets until it starts to climb at the end of the village. Literally over hill and dale, a narrow, dusty path leads uphill, and I hold on to the makeshift saddle while Titus blissfully pats the horse’s neck.

After three quarters of an hour we are standing on a hill with a view over Baisha, Shuhe and Lijiang. The horsewoman, who marched ahead in shoes with heels (!), takes the mobile phone out of my hand and takes photo after photo. Finally we are allowed to dismount. On foot we walk along a narrow path until we reach a shrine, which is adorned with prayer flags all over.

On the way back, which is steeply downhill, I give up the riding experience and prefer to walk, which Titus is really very pleased about, as he can now ride (almost) all by himself. Under flowering trees we march back through the small town, and as a reward Charly gets an apple at the end of course!

And Titus an ice cream in the nearby supermarket, in which we also buy play dough for a few Yuan – this keeps Titus busy the whole remaining afternoon!

Helpfulness

In the evening an American living here takes us to a nice little restaurant. Since Norman has joined the local WeChat group and started asking for advice, he became quite famous. The guy practically recognizes us on the street and offers his help. In fact, the choice of open restaurants increases from day to day.

Keep out

Lijiang and its neighbouring villages not only have charming old towns, but there are also many other attractions to be admired in the surroundings: The Jade Snow Mountain and the Tiger Leaping Gorge are among the top attractions, as well as the not too distant cities of Shangri-La and Dali. Unfortunately, all of them are inaccessible for us, as not only the mountain is closed for foreigners, but also the other sights and natural spectacles.

So we have to think of alternative activities and luckily it is easy to start hiking right from our hotel. Out of the city you should always be careful, as there are almost as many dogs as there are inhabitants, in front of each shop there is a four-legged friend, the animals walk through the alleyways on their own – and they leave quite a lot behind. Although the eager street sweepers are busy all day long keeping the streets clean, caution is advised!

As soon as we have left the houses behind us and taken the path towards the mountains, we are almost alone in the wide open fields. We make our way uphill through hardly recognizable paths, through pine forests with a springy underground and over dusty sections whose orange-red dust stains our shoes and trousers with every step.

It’s good to be able to just start walking, the air is clear and the steady wind provides welcome cooling. Except for the fire brigade’s helicopters circling tirelessly over the valley, which can intervene immediately in case of a forest fire, and the rustling of the pine trees, it is quiet.

Wǒ bù huì shuō zhōngwén

On the descent we stop at one of the reopened cafés where Titus once again eats cheesecake. Meanwhile I complete my daily Chinese unit. From day to day my Chinese vocabulary increases. I name animals like horse, cat and dog without mistakes, and during the evening meal in the restaurant I even understand “meiyou” (meaning “We don’t have this dish”). The only thing that fails is ordering two beers, which I do confidently right away. Instead, they put the hot water, which is ubiquitous in China, on our table. At least Mapo Tofu, corn, a kind of fried potato pie and spinach with lots of garlic taste so good that even the otherwise very sceptical Titus eats with pleasure. And in the end we get the beer after all.

Appetite for Chinese Delicacies

We eat very well anyway: Starting with the delicious Yunnan-style noodle soup for breakfast (warms the stomach and keeps it full until the evening!), to amazingly good coffee in the afternoon in charming little cafés, to hot pot (Chinese fondue) in the evening.

To whet your appetite, we provide plenty of exercise, and once again I am thrilled at how committed Titus is to hiking. No path is too steep or too narrow for him, as long as we have enough provisions with us and are willing to extend one of his many fantasy stories with him. On the other hand, he has hardly a glance left for the impressively beautiful prayer flags fluttering around stupas. They are a clear proof that we are here in the eastern foothills of the Himalayas.

In the evening Norman leads us to a Tibetan restaurant decorated with large prayer wheels at the entrance and many pictures from Lhasa inside. But here, at least Titus doesn’t like the choice of menus: hot tea with strong-smelling yak milk and rather bland, brownish buckwheat flat cakes remain almost untouched.

Posted in China, East & Southeast Asia / Ost- & Südostasien
Tagged Activity, China, Food, Hiking, Lijiang, Outdoor
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About us / Über uns

Wir sind Norman, Titus (*2014) und Nadine, eine dreiköpfige Familie. Reiseerprobt und vom Fernweh befallen wagten wir uns an das Abenteuer, den Weg von Singapur nach München auf dem Landweg und nur per öffentlichen Verkehrsmitteln anzutreten. Leider machte uns Covid-19 einen Strich durch die Rechnung, aber wir ließen uns nicht aufhalten…

Mehr Informationen zu uns und zu unserer Reise findest du hier.


We are a family of three: Norman, Titus (*2014) and Nadine. Tested by travel and infested with wanderlust, we dared to embark on the adventure of traveling from Singapore to Munich – overland by public transport. Until Covid-19 thwarted our plans – but it couldn’t stop us…

You can find more information about us and our trip here.

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Now our 6-month journey is really over… We final Now our 6-month journey is really over… We finally arrived – after starting in Singapore – back in Munich!

We have experienced a lot, gained wonderful experiences and impressions of the world and the people in Asia and Europe and above all spent a lot of time as a family. Of course, due to COVID-19 we could not complete the overland route from Singapore to Munich as originally planned. But nevertheless, we are very happy to have made the best out of the 6 month break – and above all to have stayed healthy.

We’re closing the posts 🙁 (check out our blog at www.fromsingaporetomunich.com , too!) with a photo from our last leg in Hungary and the view out of the moving train – a very similar photo to the one we took on our first leg when we left Singapore by train to Malaysia.

Stay healthy! The next journey will come for sure! 😁
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After so much traveling 🧳, finally some time to After so much traveling 🧳, finally some time to relax at lake Balaton 🏖😊. Cycling 🚴‍♀️, beach time 🌊, and sunshine ☀️ around Keszthely. 
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Budapest in summer, some sightseeing around the Ha Budapest in summer, some sightseeing around the Halászbástya rewarded with a proper Dobosz cake 🍰😊!
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The dungeons 🐉 beneath Buda Castle 🏰. Dark, The dungeons 🐉 beneath Buda Castle 🏰. Dark, creepy, scary - and a lot of fun 😊!
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Budapest, Hungary 🇭🇺. We’ve been here befo Budapest, Hungary 🇭🇺. We’ve been here before and it is still an amazing city with wonderful old buildings, the Danube river, and so on. Spent the first day on Margaret Island to enjoy summertime ⛲️.
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The 8th country on our trip: Slovakia 🇸🇰 wit The 8th country on our trip: Slovakia 🇸🇰 with 2 days in wonderful Bratislava. Historic old town, art, castles 🏰 - and ice cream 😊.
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Impressions from wonderful Vienna 🇦🇹: 1) Bei Impressions from wonderful Vienna 🇦🇹: 1) Being welcomed with military honors at the Hofburg (just kidding 😊), 2) The impressive Hofburg, 3) Old Gänsehäufelbad where we spent time at the pool during a hot day, 4/5/6) the Prater with some fun in the evening and 7) leaving wonderful Vienna by train 🚂. Thanks @julisa2306 for the tipps and information!!!
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Beach time 🏖 at the Vienna Donaukanal. Sunset 🌇, drinks 🍹 and playing in the sand ⛱😊.
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Back on the road - better to say „rail” 😊! Back on the road - better to say „rail” 😊! We’re so happy to continue our trip, now with changed plans. On the same route as initially planned - but backwards. 🚂
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Home quarantine successfully completed 😊😷! J Home quarantine successfully completed 😊😷! Just the right amount of time at our temporary home to enjoy playing 🧩, cooking 🥘, baking 🍰, doing handicraft 🛠, yoga 🧘‍♀️, playing with the model railway 🚂, etc. etc. etc. But very soon the travel continues!!! 😁
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#quarantine #quarantinelife .
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#fromsingaporetomunich #travelingwithkids #familytime #fiveyearold #sixyearold #overland #europe #germany #covid19 .
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#happyholidays #holidays #holiday #vacation #2020 #happyholidays2020 #fun #happy #family #love #happy #lucky
Finally leaving China 😥 from an abandoned airpo Finally leaving China 😥 from an abandoned airport... after 4 months of travel through Asia. But our journey back home - from Singapore to Munich - is not yet fully over 😊. .
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#shanghai #pudong #shanghaipudong #pudongairport #flight #a350 #pvgfra .
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#fromsingaporetomunich #travelingwithkids #familytime #fiveyearold #sixyearold #overland #southeastasia #eastasia #china .
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#happyholidays #holidays #holiday #vacation #2020 #happyholidays2020 #fun #happy #family #love #happy #lucky
Shanghai Zoo 🐘🦒🐅. A great afternoon to on Shanghai Zoo 🐘🦒🐅. A great afternoon to once more enjoy China 🇨🇳 - with all its fascination, craziness, specialities and incredibilities 😊.
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#shanghai #zoo #shanghaizoo #animals #fascination #craziness #incredibilities #specialities .
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#fromsingaporetomunich #travelingwithkids #familytime #fiveyearold #sixyearold #overland #southeastasia #eastasia #china .
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#happyholidays #holidays #holiday #vacation #2020 #happyholidays2020 #fun #happy #family #love #happy #lucky
Mehr laden… Auf Instagram folgen

9 Countries Explored
36 Beds Slept
7,552 km by Train Traveled
2,345 km by Bus/Car Traveled
454 km by Ship Traveled

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