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Mai 1, 2020April 24, 2020

Beobachtungen in China / Observing Everyday Life in China

Deutsch / English

Beobachtungen in China*

Fahrweise:

Wie der Henker, ohne Rücksicht auf Verluste. Selbst bei grün leuchtender Fußgängerampel ist man seines Lebens nicht sicher, denn offenbar gilt ein Ampelsignal für Fahrer von lautlosen Elektrorollern und vor allem für Rechtsabbieger grundsätzlich nicht. Mehr als einmal mussten wir im letzten Moment ausweichen oder das Kind zurückreißen, denn die Fahrer verlangsamen noch nicht einmal, selbst wenn sie durch eine Horde Fußgänger sausen. Ist dann mal gar kein Platz auf der Straße, fahren die Rollerfahrer im selben Tempo gerne auch auf den Gehwegen. Auch hier heißt es also: ständig wachsam sein.
Eine Abbiegeregel gibt es offenbar nicht, mehr als einmal musste der Bus, in dem wir gerade saßen, eine Vollbremsung einlegen, da ein Auto ihn beim Linksabbiegen die vermeintliche Vorfahrt genommen hat. Dasselbe passiert beim Spurwechsel ständig – und die meisten ganz normalen Innenstadtstraßen haben hier immer vier oder gar fünf Spuren.

Körperpflege:

Kenne ich schon aus Singapur, tritt hier aber verstärkt auf: Chinesen kürzen ihre Fingernägel für ihr Leben gern in der Öffentlichkeit. Und das heißt im Klartext: ganz ungeniert mit dem Nagelknipser im Bus oder in der U-Bahn. Ganz neu war mir aber, dass man im Bus auch genüsslich mit dem Zahnstocher die Essensreste aus den Zähnen pult und betrachtet. Das ist das allseits bekannte Rülpsen und Rotzen fast schon manierlich dagegen.

Auch in Zeiten einer Pandemie ist noch längst nicht bei allen angekommen, dass Ausspucken nicht die beste Idee ist. Stört aber viele nicht, Spaziergänger sollten vor allem bei offenen stehende Haustüren in engen Altstadt-Gassen auf der Hut sein, sonst wird’s nass…

Mode:

Schlafanzüge sind ein völlig angemessenes Kleidungsstück für die Öffentlichkeit. Ebenso wie Latzhosen mit niedlichen Winnie-Pooh-Aufdrucken, T-Shirts mit Minnie Maus und Haarreifen mit Schleifen oder Öhrchen dran – für erwachsene Frauen, wohlgemerkt. Männer hingegen, vor allem die mit Kugelbäuchen, tragen gerne bauchfrei, indem sie ihr T-Shirt einfach nach oben rollen. Und wusstet Ihr, dass Hausanzüge aus Pannesamt wieder total im Kommen sind?

Sprache:

Das ganze Chinesischlernen hat relativ wenig Effekt. Auf einzelne Wörter reagieren die Einheimischen gar nicht (und ganze Sätze kriege ich nur sehr langsam hin oder betone die einzelnen Wörter falsch) – so unvorstellbar ist es, dass Langnasen es hinkriegen, auch nur rudimentär Chinesisch zu lernen. Deshalb spricht man gerne auch ungeniert hinter unserem Rücken lautstark über uns, was ich an den Wörter „Laowai“ oder „Meiguo ren“ (Amerikaner) erkennen kann. Und die eigenen Sprachkenntnisse werden gerne lautstark kundgetan, indem uns „Hello!“ hinterhergebrüllt wird. Damit hat sich aber Wortschatz bei den meisten, die das tun, bereits erschöpft.

Bewegung:

Es wird getanzt und gesungen, und zwar in der Öffentlichkeit. Zu jeder Tages- und Nachtstunde kann man Gruppen von Einheimischen dabei beobachten, wie sie sich an Kreuzungen, in Parks oder auf Plätzen versammeln und dort zu Musik aus dem Ghettoblaster Tango, Foxtrott oder Chachacha tanzen. Daneben macht eine Gruppe Fitness oder Tai Chi, ein paar singen lauthals zusammen chinesische Schlager – und keiner kommt sich dabei komisch vor.

Benehmen:

Chinesen in Massen – vor allem ältere Herrschaften – sind nur schwer zu ertragen. Rücksichtslosigkeit, Rüpelhaftigkeit und kein Gefühl für Distanz sind weit verbreitet, sobald sie in Gruppen auftauchen. Beim Einsteigen in den Bus boxte mir eine Rentnerin in die Nieren – mit voller Absicht, wohlgemerkt! – drängte uns zur Seite, hechtete in den Bus und warf sich buchstäblich auf den nächsten freien Sitzplatz. Obwohl am Ende Platz für alle war.

Kinder:

Windelfrei ist in China gang und gäbe. Viele Babys und Kleinkinder tragen spezielle Kleidung mit Schlitz, die den Popo frei lässt. Routinierte Mütter oder Großmütter halten das Kleine dann einfach schnell am Gehwegrand ab, Kleinkinder gehen gerne in aller Öffentlichkeit in die Hocke und verrichten ihr Geschäft am Wegrand.
Wenn sie nicht gerade damit beschäftigt sind, spielen chinesische Kinder für ihr Leben gern mit Waffen, und die Eltern und Großeltern versorgen sie natürlich auch nur allzu begeistert mit Militaria. Der Anblick von Sechsjährigen, die Maschinenpistolen auf sich richten, verursacht bei mir jedes Mal Gänsehaut…

Fortsetzung folgt!

* Achtung: alles natürlich aus stilistischen Gründen überzogen und ganz schlimm verallgemeinert!


Deutsch / English

Observations of Everyday Life in China

Driving Style:

Completely crazy. Even when the pedestrian lights are green, your life is threatened because apparently a traffic light signal is not valid for the soundless and therefore even more deadly electric scooters and forcars turning right. More than once we had to swerve at the last moment or pull the child back, because the drivers do not even slow down, even if they are speeding through a horde of pedestrians. If there is no room on the road, the scooter drivers like to ride at the same speed on the sidewalks. So here, too, the motto is: be constantly alert.

Apparently there is no turning rule, more than once the bus we were just sitting in had to step on the brake because a car took the supposed right of way from it when turning left. The same thing happens all the time when changing lanes – and most of the normal city centre streets here always have four or even five lanes.

Personal Hygiene:

I’ve seen it before in Singapore, but it’s also very common here: The Chinese like to trim their fingernails in public. And that means in plain language: quite unabashedly clipping nails on the bus or in the subway. What was completely new to me, however, was that you can also pick the food leftovers out of your teeth with a toothpick and look at them. The well-known burping and snotting in public seems to be almost mannerly compared to this behaviour.

Even in times of a pandemic it is still far from everyone’s mind that spitting out is not the best idea. Many people don’t mind, walkers should be alert especially while passing open front doors in narrow old town alleys, otherwise they will experience to step into saliva puddles…

Fashion:

Pyjamas are a perfectly adequate garment for the public. As are dungarees with cute Winnie Pooh prints, T-shirts with Minnie Mouse and hair bands with bows or ears on them – for adult women, mind you. Men, on the other hand, especially those with huge bellies, like to wear belly-free by simply rolling up their T-shirt. And did you know that full loungewear outfits made of mirror velvet are back in fashion?

Language:

Spending hours every day to learn at least some basic Chinese language skills has not paid off yet. The locals don’t react to single words at all (and whole sentences I can only manage very slowly or emphasize the single words wrong) – so unimaginable is it that Laowai manage to learn even rudimentary Chinese. That’s why people like to talk loudly about us behind our backs, which I can recognize by the words “Laowai” or “Meiguo ren” (American). And people like to let us know about their own language skills loudly by shouting “Hello!” behind us. But after that, they won’t start any further conversation because that’s all of their vocabulary.

Exercising:

Dancing and singing in public is very common. At any hour of the day or night, groups of locals can be seen gathering at crossroads, in parks or at squares, dancing tango, foxtrot or cha-cha-cha to music played with a ghetto blaster. In addition, a group practises fitness or tai chi, a few sing Chinese hits loudly together – and nobody feels funny to do so in public.

Manners:

Chinese people in crowds – especially elderly people – are very difficult to tolerate. Ruthlessness, boorishness and no sense of distance are widespread as soon as they appear in groups. When getting on the bus, a pensioner punched me in the kidneys – on purpose, mind you! – pushed us to the side, plunged into the bus and literally threw herself into the next available seat. Nevertheless, in the end there was room for everyone.

Children:

Diaper-free is very common in China. Many babies and toddlers wear special clothes with a slit that leaves them bottom-free. Experienced mothers or grandmothers then simply hold the little ones away from themselves quickly at the edge of the sidewalk, toddlers like to squat in public just beside the sidewalks and green areas.

When they are not busy with it, Chinese children love to play with weapons, and their parents and grandparents are naturally all very enthusiastic about providing them with militaria. Watching six-year-olds pointing machine guns at each other gives me goose bumps every time…

To be continued!

* Attention: of course everything is overdrawn for stylistic reasons and generalized a lot!

Posted in China, East & Southeast Asia / Ost- & Südostasien
Tagged China, Culture, Kids, Language, People, Traffic
3 Comments
Nadine
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Comments (3)

  • Peter Augst Mai 1, 2020 at 10:07 am Reply

    liebe Nadine,
    ich bewundere deine excellente Gabe der Beobachtung und die gleichermaßen plakative sprich realistische Beschreibung. Da kann selbst ich noch vieles lernen, Bravo – mach weiter so !!
    hG Peter

    • Nadine Mai 2, 2020 at 3:13 am Reply

      Vielen Dank, lieber Peter! Über so ein Lob freue ich mich sehr. Mir macht es einfach Spaß, Menschen zu beobachten und dabei zu lernen. Echte Horizonterweiterung eben.
      Alles Liebe
      Nadine

  • Pingback: Beobachtungen in China, Teil 2 / Observing Everyday Life in China, Part 2 – From Singapore to Munich

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About us / Über uns

Wir sind Norman, Titus (*2014) und Nadine, eine dreiköpfige Familie. Reiseerprobt und vom Fernweh befallen wagten wir uns an das Abenteuer, den Weg von Singapur nach München auf dem Landweg und nur per öffentlichen Verkehrsmitteln anzutreten. Leider machte uns Covid-19 einen Strich durch die Rechnung, aber wir ließen uns nicht aufhalten…

Mehr Informationen zu uns und zu unserer Reise findest du hier.


We are a family of three: Norman, Titus (*2014) and Nadine. Tested by travel and infested with wanderlust, we dared to embark on the adventure of traveling from Singapore to Munich – overland by public transport. Until Covid-19 thwarted our plans – but it couldn’t stop us…

You can find more information about us and our trip here.

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Now our 6-month journey is really over… We final Now our 6-month journey is really over… We finally arrived – after starting in Singapore – back in Munich!

We have experienced a lot, gained wonderful experiences and impressions of the world and the people in Asia and Europe and above all spent a lot of time as a family. Of course, due to COVID-19 we could not complete the overland route from Singapore to Munich as originally planned. But nevertheless, we are very happy to have made the best out of the 6 month break – and above all to have stayed healthy.

We’re closing the posts 🙁 (check out our blog at www.fromsingaporetomunich.com , too!) with a photo from our last leg in Hungary and the view out of the moving train – a very similar photo to the one we took on our first leg when we left Singapore by train to Malaysia.

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9 Countries Explored
36 Beds Slept
7,552 km by Train Traveled
2,345 km by Bus/Car Traveled
454 km by Ship Traveled

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