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From Singapore to Munich
  • Home
  • Countries / Länder
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    • First-aid kit / Reiseapotheke
    • Trains in Malaysia
    • Trains in Thailand
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    • Beschäftigungen für Kinder auf Langzeitreisen / How to keep your kids busy on long-term trips
  • About us / Über uns
    • About us / Über uns
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Mai 4, 2020Mai 3, 2020

Suzhou/Jiangsu: Venedig des Ostens / Venice of the East

Deutsch / English

Suzhou/Jiangsu: Venedig des Ostens und Metropole

Genau nach sechs Stunden Fahrt erreichen wir mit dem Zug das 1.300 Kilometer weiter östlich gelegene Suzhou. Wir sind erneut sehr begeistert von dieser angenehmen – und schnellen – Art des Reisens. Die Zeit konnten wir uns gut vertreiben, mit Hörbüchern, Snacks, dem e-Reader und Laptop. Jeder Sitzplatz verfügt über eine Steckdose.

Nach unserem Abenteuer in Huayin stellen wir uns bei unserer Ankunft in Suzhou erneut auf längere Wartezeit am Bahnhof ein. Schließlich liegt Suzhou in der Provinz Jiangsu und hat sicherlich wieder ganz andere Auflagen, was die Einreise anbelangt.

Doch – oh Wunder! – dürfen wir das große Bahnhofsgebäude ganz ohne Kontrolle verlassen. Und auch für das Taxi müssen wir keine App vorzeigen oder einen QR-Code scannen, wir können einfach einsteigen und der Fahrer bringt uns nach einem kurzen Telefonat mit der Hotelchefin zur gewünschten Adresse. Nur eine halbe Stunde nach Ankunft des Zuges erreichen wir zu Fuß durch die schmale Altstadt-Gasse unsere Unterkunft.

Wir beziehen dort unser Dreibettzimmer, das leider etwas dunkel ist, da es im Erdgeschoss liegt und kein Fenster hat. Aber nach der langen Fahrt wollen wir uns eh noch die Beine vertreten und machen einen langen Spaziergang durch die malerischen Gassen von Gusu.

Kanäle und malerische Altstadt

Shuzou wird wegen seiner vielen verzweigten Kanäle auch „Venedig des Ostens“ genannt, und macht seinem Spitznamen alle Ehre. Auf dem Wasser staken singende (!) Gondoliere in chinesische Trachten gekleidete Paare in hölzernen Booten umher, und die Menschendichte ist hier so hoch, dass man fast vergessen könnte, das China sich gerade von einer Pandemie erholt. An manchen Eingängen wird halbherzig die Temperatur kontrolliert, aber schon die Maskenpflicht wird längst nicht von jedem mehr befolgt.

Vor den erleuchteten Brücken stehen die vielen Spaziergänge Schlange, um möglichst Social-Media-taugliche Fotos zu schießen. Auch Norman lässt sich ein wenig hinreißen und knipst, was das Zeug hält.

Dafür, dass wir bis vor vier Wochen bewusst noch nie etwas von Suzhou gehört haben und es auch nicht auf unserer ursprünglichen Reiseroute liegt, finden wir es ziemlich toll hier. Die Luft ist mild, hier herrscht eindeutig ein wärmeres Klima als im Landesinneren. Wir lassen uns von den Menschenmassen, die sich nach Einbruch der Dunkelheit durch die von Bars, Boutiquen und Essensständen gesäumten Straßen schieben, mitreißen, und kehren noch in eine Bar auf einen Absacker ein. Das findet Titus besonders toll, aus unerfindlichen Gründen liebt er Bars und Cocktails und schlürft mit Genuss seine Kinder-Limonade, während er dem Gitarre spielenden Sänger lauscht.

Moderne Großstadt

In „unserem“ Viertel Gusu wirkt Suzhou klein und dörflich, Autos dürfen hier nicht fahren, und nur lautlose Elektro-Roller und Fahrräder kurven durch die Sträßchen. Kaum zu glauben, dass die vor 2.500 Jahren gegründete Stadt, die bereits im 14. Jahrhundert wegen ihrer Seidenproduktion weltweit bekannt war, heute weit über 12 Millionen Einwohner hat. Doch wir werden bereits am zweiten Tag eines besseren belehrt, als wir mit der U-Bahn zum Westufer des Jinji-Sees fahren. Vor unseren Augen erheben sich die Wolkenkratzer, darunter das markante Gate of the Orient (oder „Die Hose“, wie Titus sofort assoziiert) und der gerade erst fertig gestellte Suzhou Supertower mit seinen 450 Metern Höhe, der aber komplett leer steht.

Wir spazieren am Seeufer entlang, immer mit Blick auf das Riesenrad, das wohl größte in ganz Asien. Zum Abendessen treffen wir uns bei Din Tai Fung mit Lara und ihrem Mann Joscha. Lara haben wir über Instagram kennengelernt, sie lebt seit zwei Jahren in Suzhou und hat uns bereits vorab mit vielen Informationen versorgt. Suzhou ist nämlich nicht nur eine Kanalstadt, sondern auch ein wichtiger Industriestandort, und die vielen internationalen Firmen bringen natürlich auch dementsprechend viele nicht-chinesische Mitarbeiter mit. Jedenfalls haben wir alleine in den ersten 24 Stunden hier mehr „Laowai“ gesehen als in den ganzen letzten zwei Monaten.

Wir verbringen jedenfalls einen netten Abend in deutscher Gesellschaft, den wir dann noch bei einem Getränk auf einer Rooftop-Bar mit Blick auf die hell erleuchtete Fassade des Hosen-Hauses ausklingen lassen. Wie uns die Ortsansässigen vorgewarnt haben, werden in Suzhou allerdings ab 22 Uhr die Bürgersteige hochgelappt und die Lichter ausgeschaltet. Jedenfalls sind die Straßen menschenleer und wir ergattern gerade so noch ein Taxi zurück ins Hotel.


Deutsch / English

Suzhou/Jiangsu: Venice of the East and Metropolis

Exactly after a six-hour journey we reach Suzhou, 1,300 kilometres further east, by train. Once again we are very enthusiastic about this pleasant – and fast – way of travelling. We were able to pass the time well, with audio books, snacks, the e-reader and laptop. Every seat comes with its own socket.

After our adventure in Huayin, we have prepared ourselves for a longer waiting time at the station when we arrive in Suzhou. After all, Suzhou is located in the province of Jiangsu and certainly has different entry requirements.

But – hooray! – we are allowed to leave the big station building without any control. And also for the taxi we don’t have to show any app or scan a QR-code, we can just get in and the driver takes us to the desired address after a short phone call with the hotel manager. Only half an hour after the arrival of the train we reach our accommodation on foot through a narrow oldtown alley.

There we move into our triple room, which unfortunately is a little dark, as it is located on the ground floor and has no window. But after the long drive we want to stretch our legs anyway and take a long walk through the picturesque alleyways of Gusu.

Canals and picturesque old town

Shuzou is also known as the “Venice of the East” because of its many ramified canals, and does credit to its nickname. On the water, singing (!) gondoliers dressed in Chinese costumes stagger around in wooden boats, and the density of people here is so high that one could almost forget that China is recovering from a pandemic. At some entrances, the temperature is half-heartedly controlled, but even the compulsory masks are no longer worn by everyone.

In front of the illuminated bridges many people queue up to take “instagramable” photos. Norman also gets a little carried away and takes pictures as much as he can.

For the fact that until four weeks ago we consciously never heard of Suzhou and it was not on our original travel itinerary, we like it very much here. The air is mild, the climate here is definitely warmer than in central China. We let ourselves be carried away by the crowds of people who after dark push through the streets lined with bars, boutiques and food stalls, and stop at a bar for a nightcap. Titus thinks this is especially great, for some inexplicable reason he loves bars and cocktails and sips his kid’s lemonade with pleasure while listening to the guitar-playing singer.

Modern City

In “our” quarter Gusu, Suzhou seems small and village-like, cars are not allowed to drive here, and only silent electric scooters and bicycles curve through the little streets. It is hard to believe that the city, founded 2,500 years ago and already known worldwide for its silk production in the 14th century, today has well over 12 million inhabitants. But we are already taught a better lesson on the second day when we take the subway to the west shore of Lake Jinji. Skyscrapers rise in front of us, including the striking Gate to the East (or “The Pants”, as Titus immediately associates) and the recently completed Suzhou IFS, 450 meters high but completely empty.

We walk along the lakeshore, with a view of the Suzhou Ferris Wheel, probably the largest in Asia. For dinner we meet at Din Tai Fung with Lara and her husband Joscha. We got to know Lara through Instagram, she has been living in Suzhou for two years and has already provided us with a lot of information in advance. Suzhou is not only a canal city, but also an important industrial location, and the many international companies naturally bring along many non-Chinese employees. Honestly, we saw more “Laowai” in the first 24 hours here than in the whole last two months.

Anyway, we spend a nice evening in German company, which we then finish with a drink at a rooftop bar with a view to the brightly illuminated facade of the Pants-Building. But as the locals warned us, in Suzhou, the sidewalks are rolled up and the lights are switched off from 10 p.m. on. Anyway, the streets are deserted and we barely manage to get a taxi back to the hotel.

Posted in China, East & Southeast Asia / Ost- & Südostasien
Tagged China, History, Jiangsu, Suzhou
3 Comments
Nadine
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Sightseeing in Suzhou, Part 1   

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Comments (3)

  • Steffen Mai 5, 2020 at 1:15 pm Reply

    Steter Tropfen höhlt den Stein. Ihr stellt mit Euren Berichten mein China Weltbild langsam aber sicher auf den Kopf. Mein altes Weltbild war erst von wechselnder DDR-Propaganda und in den letzten Jahren von verschiedenen Dokus (neue Seidenstraße, Überwachungsstaat, Ausbeutung, Gigantomanie) geprägt. Toll, die “normale” menschliche Seite des Lebens dort, durch euch kennen zu lernen.

    • Nadine Mai 6, 2020 at 1:00 am Reply

      Sehr gut, Bildungsauftrag erfüllt! Im Ernst: Mir geht es genauso – und ich rätsle seither, warum das Bild, das in Deutschland von China gezeichnet wird, so negativ ist. Das Land ist wunderschön und so abwechslungsreich, die Menschen hilfsbereit und freundlich – und man kommt auch ohne Chinesisch gut klar. Also: ab nach China!

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About us / Über uns

Wir sind Norman, Titus (*2014) und Nadine, eine dreiköpfige Familie. Reiseerprobt und vom Fernweh befallen wagten wir uns an das Abenteuer, den Weg von Singapur nach München auf dem Landweg und nur per öffentlichen Verkehrsmitteln anzutreten. Leider machte uns Covid-19 einen Strich durch die Rechnung, aber wir ließen uns nicht aufhalten…

Mehr Informationen zu uns und zu unserer Reise findest du hier.


We are a family of three: Norman, Titus (*2014) and Nadine. Tested by travel and infested with wanderlust, we dared to embark on the adventure of traveling from Singapore to Munich – overland by public transport. Until Covid-19 thwarted our plans – but it couldn’t stop us…

You can find more information about us and our trip here.

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Now our 6-month journey is really over… We final Now our 6-month journey is really over… We finally arrived – after starting in Singapore – back in Munich!

We have experienced a lot, gained wonderful experiences and impressions of the world and the people in Asia and Europe and above all spent a lot of time as a family. Of course, due to COVID-19 we could not complete the overland route from Singapore to Munich as originally planned. But nevertheless, we are very happy to have made the best out of the 6 month break – and above all to have stayed healthy.

We’re closing the posts 🙁 (check out our blog at www.fromsingaporetomunich.com , too!) with a photo from our last leg in Hungary and the view out of the moving train – a very similar photo to the one we took on our first leg when we left Singapore by train to Malaysia.

Stay healthy! The next journey will come for sure! 😁
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After so much traveling 🧳, finally some time to After so much traveling 🧳, finally some time to relax at lake Balaton 🏖😊. Cycling 🚴‍♀️, beach time 🌊, and sunshine ☀️ around Keszthely. 
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Budapest in summer, some sightseeing around the Ha Budapest in summer, some sightseeing around the Halászbástya rewarded with a proper Dobosz cake 🍰😊!
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The dungeons 🐉 beneath Buda Castle 🏰. Dark, The dungeons 🐉 beneath Buda Castle 🏰. Dark, creepy, scary - and a lot of fun 😊!
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The 8th country on our trip: Slovakia 🇸🇰 wit The 8th country on our trip: Slovakia 🇸🇰 with 2 days in wonderful Bratislava. Historic old town, art, castles 🏰 - and ice cream 😊.
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Impressions from wonderful Vienna 🇦🇹: 1) Bei Impressions from wonderful Vienna 🇦🇹: 1) Being welcomed with military honors at the Hofburg (just kidding 😊), 2) The impressive Hofburg, 3) Old Gänsehäufelbad where we spent time at the pool during a hot day, 4/5/6) the Prater with some fun in the evening and 7) leaving wonderful Vienna by train 🚂. Thanks @julisa2306 for the tipps and information!!!
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Beach time 🏖 at the Vienna Donaukanal. Sunset 🌇, drinks 🍹 and playing in the sand ⛱😊.
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9 Countries Explored
36 Beds Slept
7,552 km by Train Traveled
2,345 km by Bus/Car Traveled
454 km by Ship Traveled

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